Cambodian King Suryavarman 1 did not sleep .So many deaths. If death had come due to invasion from enemies he would have been happy.
But what is happening now is gruesome.If people die due to starvation the King is accountable.As a King Suryavarman duty is to protect his kingdom and also provide security and food for the people.
But what is happening now is gruesome.If people die due to starvation the King is accountable.As a King Suryavarman duty is to protect his kingdom and also provide security and food for the people.
People believe me as god.They call me "Devaraja".
Nonsense- "I have prayed so many times and If I'm god I had instructed the nature as well.Where is rain"?
"Am 'I devaraja - I'm a man, ordinary man doing the work of god".Self realisation for Suryavarman 1 had started.
"My father and fore fathers did not understand the truth.I can realise and understand, I can become Sivam but not Sivan".
"With me Devaraja - will end".
He arranged an urgent meeting with his council of ministers.
All were standing in front of the emperor.
"Tonle slap river is dry sir".
"No rain has made the matter worse sir".
"The reservoir can hold water only for few more days sir and after that the palace also may become dry".
"What to do"?
"Trimurthi only can help"!
"Whatever food is available at our storage let it be given to the needy" said the Devaraja.
"I don't want my people to suffer".
"We shall meet later".
Suryavarman was sitting alone.
His close friend was with him.He was his minister as well.
"Shall we go to Kbal Spean".
His dutiful friend and confidant said" Yes,Varma we shall".
"Can you walk up".
"Yes, I want to go to the hillock and pray from there,I'm doing this for my people".
"Both of us alone can go".
"I don't want anyone else two studs should do "was the instruction.
From Suryavarman's palace the ride was around 55 Kms.
Two white horses took both of them in an hour's time.
Kbal spean is a small mountain from which the river which comes to Siem reap(old Angkor) originates.
The river feeds the Khmer kingdom and if it goes dry drought creeps in.
Surya varman 1, started climbing.
It was dry and hot.
Both of them took tender coconuts to keep their thirst at bay.
The path was tough but they were able to negotiate.Few villagers noticed the King and fell on his feet.
They helped his friend to cut the weeds encroaching the path.
After an hour of trekking they came to the top.
"Sir, the waterfall has totally dried up".
Suryavarman was tired mentally and few drops of tears trickled.
He asked all the villagers to go away.
He sat with his friend and started meditating.
"Trimurthi you should save the kingdom".
He sat in total penance for several hours.
All of a sudden a chill breeze swept the hillock.
Grey clouds gathered.
His friend opened the eyes.
Yes,the blue sunny sky turned totally grey now.
Few drops fell.
Then few more.
Then a drizzle and finally a downpour.
The sky was lit up by lightning.
Suryavarman was crying and it could not be noticed because of the rain.
He hugged his friend.
Trimurthi had answered.
He arranged an urgent meeting with his council of ministers.
All were standing in front of the emperor.
"Tonle slap river is dry sir".
"No rain has made the matter worse sir".
"The reservoir can hold water only for few more days sir and after that the palace also may become dry".
"What to do"?
"Trimurthi only can help"!
"Whatever food is available at our storage let it be given to the needy" said the Devaraja.
"I don't want my people to suffer".
"We shall meet later".
Suryavarman was sitting alone.
His close friend was with him.He was his minister as well.
"Shall we go to Kbal Spean".
His dutiful friend and confidant said" Yes,Varma we shall".
"Can you walk up".
"Yes, I want to go to the hillock and pray from there,I'm doing this for my people".
"Both of us alone can go".
"I don't want anyone else two studs should do "was the instruction.
From Suryavarman's palace the ride was around 55 Kms.
Two white horses took both of them in an hour's time.
Kbal spean is a small mountain from which the river which comes to Siem reap(old Angkor) originates.
The river feeds the Khmer kingdom and if it goes dry drought creeps in.
Surya varman 1, started climbing.
It was dry and hot.
Both of them took tender coconuts to keep their thirst at bay.
The path was tough but they were able to negotiate.Few villagers noticed the King and fell on his feet.
They helped his friend to cut the weeds encroaching the path.
After an hour of trekking they came to the top.
"Sir, the waterfall has totally dried up".
Suryavarman was tired mentally and few drops of tears trickled.
He asked all the villagers to go away.
He sat with his friend and started meditating.
"Trimurthi you should save the kingdom".
He sat in total penance for several hours.
All of a sudden a chill breeze swept the hillock.
Grey clouds gathered.
His friend opened the eyes.
Yes,the blue sunny sky turned totally grey now.
Few drops fell.
Then few more.
Then a drizzle and finally a downpour.
The sky was lit up by lightning.
Suryavarman was crying and it could not be noticed because of the rain.
He hugged his friend.
Trimurthi had answered.
Vishnu had saved us.
Siva for a change has avoided a destruction.
Brahma can now help us in producing good children.
The King and his friend waited till the rain finished which took full 4 hours.
As they walked down Suryavarman pointed out the waterfall now streaming down beautifully.
Villagers ran and fell on the Devaraja foot.
Suryavarman ate with his villagers and came to his palace next day.
"Sahasralingam(1000 lingas) should be there".
"Our entire country should be blessed by Trimurthi".
Siva for a change has avoided a destruction.
Brahma can now help us in producing good children.
The King and his friend waited till the rain finished which took full 4 hours.
As they walked down Suryavarman pointed out the waterfall now streaming down beautifully.
Villagers ran and fell on the Devaraja foot.
Suryavarman ate with his villagers and came to his palace next day.
"Sahasralingam(1000 lingas) should be there".
"Our entire country should be blessed by Trimurthi".
"You are my best friend".
"Do it and come".
"I'm telling you this as my friend and not as a King"."You were with me when I was down and you are with me when I win and you will be with me when I die".
"I believe you, like I believe Siva".
"Will you do it for me"? Suryavarman was talking continuoslly.
"Should you ask me",was the answer from his friend.
"1000 lingas will be there"."Devaraja,you will see it on top of the hill"
"It will be built soon".
"Vishnu and Brahma will be there".
"From where the river starts they will bless us."
"Trimurthi will bless the origin of the river".
"The river will never dry up if they bless us from the top".
"I will do it and come Devaraja"
The minister and 100 people went to the hillock to carve 1000 lingas on top of the mountain.
These people settled there, meditated and did Puja at Kbal spean.
"It will be built soon".
"Vishnu and Brahma will be there".
"From where the river starts they will bless us."
"Trimurthi will bless the origin of the river".
"The river will never dry up if they bless us from the top".
"I will do it and come Devaraja"
The minister and 100 people went to the hillock to carve 1000 lingas on top of the mountain.
These people settled there, meditated and did Puja at Kbal spean.
After few years the minister came to meet the King.
"Sir, I have finished the job".
"You have to come and see".
The friends hugged each other - "We shall see the true Devaraja"?
"I'm not the true Devaraja - Trimurthi are the real deva - real gods.
"Buddha is their avatar.Buddha also is a Devaraja".
"I have and I'm full of desires how can I, be called Devaraja".
"With me this cult will be over".
"With me this cult will be over".
"Am I correct "- asked the King.
Suryavarman eyes were calmness personified and his friend held his hands and kissed.
Kbal means -Head and Spean means Bridge.
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| THE ENTRY POINT- A VISUAL GUIDE |
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| THE HIKE, AT TIMES HELPED WITH WOODEN STEPS |
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| THE DIRECTIONS |
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| A SERENE WALK UP |
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| CLOSE TO THE NATURE |
When I trekked this small mountain I was alone.
It was 7am the security checked my travel pass and allowed me.
Sary,my tour guide told me "It's safe".
I asked the security again "Is it safe to climb up alone".
He said "No worry sir, perfect".
I climbed and it was easy.
I did not experience the difficulties of Suryavarman as the path on the mountain is negotiable.
After 800 meters a security man asked me "Alone sir".
I said "Yes,I'm always alone".
He also climbed with me.
"Sir, see the rock on the left".
Nandhi was there,on the rock.
"Look on the left sir".
Small, small lingas on the flat rock, actually its a river bed.
Water was running over it.
I touched them and prayed,kissed also.
The waterfall could be seen between the trees.
"I asked him can we go and see the waterfall".
"Sir, just few meters you will be there".
Holy water.
I drenched my head and the water was chilly and nice.
"Vishnu",he yelled.
A beautiful Vishnu was seen on the river bed with Brahma arising from the navel.A mix of Khmer craftsmanship,spirituality and divinity could be envisoned.
Cambodian kings worshipped all three gods and some of them had more affinity towards Vishnu.
Brahma was next to him.
I sat there.
It was 7am the security checked my travel pass and allowed me.
Sary,my tour guide told me "It's safe".
I asked the security again "Is it safe to climb up alone".
He said "No worry sir, perfect".
I climbed and it was easy.
I did not experience the difficulties of Suryavarman as the path on the mountain is negotiable.
After 800 meters a security man asked me "Alone sir".
I said "Yes,I'm always alone".
He also climbed with me.
"Sir, see the rock on the left".
Nandhi was there,on the rock.
"Look on the left sir".
Small, small lingas on the flat rock, actually its a river bed.
Water was running over it.
I touched them and prayed,kissed also.
The waterfall could be seen between the trees.
"I asked him can we go and see the waterfall".
"Sir, just few meters you will be there".
Holy water.
I drenched my head and the water was chilly and nice.
"Vishnu",he yelled.
A beautiful Vishnu was seen on the river bed with Brahma arising from the navel.A mix of Khmer craftsmanship,spirituality and divinity could be envisoned.
Cambodian kings worshipped all three gods and some of them had more affinity towards Vishnu.
Brahma was next to him.
I sat there.
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| HOLY WATERFALL |
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| NANDHI - THE HOLY BULL |
The security asked me" Coming up".
I told "Wait please", recited Sivapuranam and meditated for some time.
Few meters there was a pleateau.
Kbal means head.Two rocks make the head.
Spean means bridge.
The flat rock mimicking a pleateau is the bridge.
Yes, water was flowing underneath.
"Look the other side,on the right"
Vishnu again beautifully chiseled out.
Small lingas surrounding him.
Kbal means head.Two rocks make the head.
Spean means bridge.
The flat rock mimicking a pleateau is the bridge.
Yes, water was flowing underneath.
"Look the other side,on the right"
Vishnu again beautifully chiseled out.
Small lingas surrounding him.
Few steps further, Brahma again.
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| THE HERMITS |
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| HANUMAN |
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| THE CROCODILE |
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| SIVA AND PARVATHI AS UMA MAHESHWARAR SEATED ON NANDHI |
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| WATER SANCTIFIED BY LINGAS |
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| SAHASRALINGAS - 1000 LINGAS |
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| PANCHALINGAS(5LINGAS) ON THE PEDESTAL |
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| VISHNU LYING ON THE SERPENT |
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| VISHNU AGAIN |
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WATER FLOWING UNDERNEATH THE BRIDGE WITH CARVINGS OF VISHNU AND LINGA.
BRAHMA ARISING FROM THE NAVEL OF VISHNU CAN BE SEEN.
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| THE PEDESTAL ALONE PROBABLY HAD THE GOLDEN LINGA |
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| BRAHMA SITTING ON THE LOTUS |
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| THE RIVER FLOWING FROM ONE SIDE,BRAHMA WITH THREE HEADS. |
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| THE BRIDGE BETWEEN TWO ROCKS-KBAL SPEAN |
The carvings of Siva and Parvathi sitting on the bull,Lakshmi and Hanuman were unbelievably and beautifully chiseled out on the rocks and the river bed. When water is more these carvings cannot be seen.
I was lucky to see Trimurthi.
In India Brahma has only five temples at Puskar,Goa,Bangalore,Trivandrum and a village called Thirupattur near Thiruchi.
Siva,Vishnu and Brahma are seen together only in few places.
I can recollect a Uthamar temple at Thiruchi and a temple in Kerala.
One at cambodia.
Technically Kbal spean is not a temple. These are carvings on the stone.
Surya varman was a Buddhist but he had firm belief on Trimurthi also.
He was tolerant to all religions and he had trade and military connections with Rajendra chozhan.
Infact Rajendra chozhan helped Suryavarman in his war against Srivijaya kingdom(present Indonesia)
Surya varman died in 1050 AD.
His successor was Udayaaditya varman who also contributed for the carvings at Kbal spean.
The golden linga was made by Udaiyadityavarman,in 1059AD and installed here.Its untraceble now.
Suryavarman did two improtant things.
Kings are not Gods. He ended "Devaraja cult".It however came back later.Devaraja Cult is essentially the King is God and the Cambodian,Khmer Kings propogated themselves as impersonation of god - Siva.Devaraja cult came back with Jayavarman 7 in the form of Buddhist incarnation.
Suryavarman 1,also ended a 250 year old "Sivakaivalya concept".
The Khmer kings had a royal priest. They will do coronation of the King and also acted as spirtual guru for the Kings.They had their own palace and a family tree.This was Sivakaivalya concept.
Suryavarman and subsequently Udayaadityavarman ended the royal priest culture but they never knew after 200 years their palaces and temples will be shattered and ruined.
Addendum:
Surya varman 1 is different from Suryavarman 2. Suryavarman 2 built the Angkor Vat.
This area was discovered by a French man, Jean boulbot in 1969.He died in 2007 at Phuket,Thailand and his ashes were dispersed at Kbal spean.
The present Siem reap was Khmer capital before.
Tonle sap river flows in the heart of the town and it originates from Kbal spean.
Kbal Spean can be reached from Siem reap where there are lots of places to stay.
Air Asia flies from Chennai and Cochin to Siem reap via Bangkok and Kuala Lumpur.
Air Srilanka also has flights.
Local commutation is by Tuk Tuk which makes an amazing travel experience.
Siem Reap is very safe.
A three day pass to Angkor temples and Kbal spean costs 62 USD and a one day pass is 37 USD.
This area was discovered by a French man, Jean boulbot in 1969.He died in 2007 at Phuket,Thailand and his ashes were dispersed at Kbal spean.
The present Siem reap was Khmer capital before.
Tonle sap river flows in the heart of the town and it originates from Kbal spean.
Kbal Spean can be reached from Siem reap where there are lots of places to stay.
Air Asia flies from Chennai and Cochin to Siem reap via Bangkok and Kuala Lumpur.
Air Srilanka also has flights.
Local commutation is by Tuk Tuk which makes an amazing travel experience.
Siem Reap is very safe.
A three day pass to Angkor temples and Kbal spean costs 62 USD and a one day pass is 37 USD.
Wonderful story of Self-realization of King Suryavarma 1.
ReplyDeleteThe pictures of the river flowing over the 1000 lingas is beautiful.
This must a have been a wonderful trek.