Sunday 31 December 2017

KUMBAKONAM BASED SIVASTHALANGAL-PART3

This will be the third part about Siva temples in and around Kumbakonam.
In this part we shall see four temples which are important not only because they have been visited by Appar and Thirugnanasambandar but these temples are important Parihara(remedy) temples.
Parihara temples is just a marketing gimmick to make a temple famous.
When Thirugnanasambandar wanted to go to Pandya kingdom he was restrained by Appar.
"Don't go now as the planets are not good for you" - Appar said this to Thirugnanasambandar.
The answer given by Thirugnanasambandar was simple.
"I believe in Siva and all planets are offshoots of Siva and they can't do anything to me" was Sambandars reply.
What Sambandar subsequently did with Pandian and Pandya kingdom is history.
Believe and pray to Siva rest will be taken care of automatically.


KARKADESHWARAR TEMPLE:

To go to Karkadeswarar temple if we are coming from Chennai or Pondicherry we have to take the NH45c to Kumbakonam. We have to cross Thirupanandhal and then we have to look for an arts college by name Mass college of arts and science. The college is on the left side of the highway. The next left cut is non descript and does not have any directions. We have to drive through that smallish road.
A drive of 1.5 kms brings us to this temple which is fully surrounded by paddy fields.
When ever I go to these less visited Devarapadal petra sthalams, I often see people flock towards Parihara sthalams.Despite being in a relatively inaccessible area few vehicles were standing near the temple.
This temple is a Parihara sthalam for people who are sick and also for people who have "Kadaga Rasi",(Cancer Zodiac sign).
The story of this temple also revolves around Kadagam meaning Nandu and crab in English.




THE BACK DROP



CHANDRAN -MOON GOD -IN PERMANENT PENANCE 



THE MYTH AS STONE ENGRAVINGS




DHANVANTRI AND AGATHIAR HAVE WORSHIPPED SIVA HERE


THE ENTRANCE WITH MY LIVING GOD SITTING


INNER PRAHAAM SHOWING AMMAN SHRINE


What did the crab do here?Kantharvan is our hero here.As the name suggests he is a handsome man and women flock around him.When he was walking around this place he saw a old man in deep penance.Unfortunately Kantharvan did not know he is Durvasar the temperamental sage. Kantharvan did not like the old man and started teasing him.

He crawled like a crab mimicking the old sage. Duruvasar broke the penance and cursed him to become a crab. Kantharvan pleaded ignorance but Duruvasar told him pray like me to siva here and he alone can give you the Kantharva roobam(Original look).Kantharva in the form of crab started its worship of Siva.

At the same time lord Indra came down to this place to offer pooja and prayers to Siva  in order to acquire powers to annihilate evil demons.

He picked up 1008 sunflowers to do pooja daily. One flower was missing daily. The missing flower was taken by the crab for its prayers to, Lord Siva. The crab used to climb on Siva Linga with the flower and put it on his head on offer prayers.
Indran found this and hit the crab with his sword and before it could hit the crab the lingam opened itself on top and took the crab, inside.

Siva gives Kantharuban his original form and admonishes Indran to control his anger if he wants to kill Asuras. Hence this place is called as Nandu kovil locally and has subsequently become a remedy temple for Cancerians.

This temple is also called as Thiruthevankudi meaning Thirunthia(corrected)Thevan(lord indra)Kudi(village).

THIRUVISAINALLUR:

Thiruvisainallur is just two kms from Karkadeshwarar temple. A straight road on the right side takes  us to this big temple.Just from nowhere we suddenly visualise a big gopuram belonging to the dravidian culture. As we enter the temple my father immediately noticed a difference. He was pointing that Nandhi is present after Balipeedam which is not fitting into the pattern of Siva temples. I had already read the story behind this and told him the story.

He had just come to the entrance of the temple.He is a man who has hardly done any good things in life.Women,bribe,murder you name it he has done all. When age caught up with him he thought he should do away all his sins and started praying to lord Siva. He has now become a deep Saivite and was going to different temples. Thiruvisainallur was his next stop.
Siva knew his prodigal son is coming. All are his sons.
As he was praying to Siva some of his words could be heard by the lord.
Siva decided to have a Game.
"Nandhi somebody is calling look who is it".

Nandhikeshwarar turned and saw the man standing out.The very look of Nandhi burnt all his sins.He was made pure by the indirect act of Siva.
Inside the sanctum we can see Nandhi looking to the right side.

"Lord you have finished your act by asking me looking at him".

"Nandhikeswara the job is not  over you have a fight now"."Fight "?,Nandhi uttered and started hearing some one coming now.
Yamadarmaraja had just come.

"Why you are here sir?".
"I have come to take the man standing there with me" was the response by Yamadarman to Nandhi's question.

"I had just washed away his sins and you cant take him now".
"Dont come in my way Nandhi".
Nandhi did not buy his answer.

A fight ensued and Nandhi was the winner.Nandhi removed the balipeedam and kept ahead of him and said," You step here you are finished".
Yamadarmar ran away.

Nandhi asked Siva "Why this game lord?".

"To prove the world I'm impartial.The man who had committed lots of sins understood his fallacies totally and I wanted to pardon him and give him more life on earth so that people like him will see him as an example and change".
Nandhikeswarar understood and hope we also understand.
This apparently made people think and make this temple a remedy temple for Taurus,zodiac sign.



DRAVIDIAN STYLE GOPURAM


NANDHI BETWEEN BALIPEEDAM AND KODIMARAM


A WELL MAINTAINED TEMPLE-COURTESY TANJORE KINGS


THE BAIRAVAS OF DIFFERENT YUGAS


STATUE OF YUYAVANTHA NAYANMAR-BORN HERE


SIVAYOGANATHAR FROM A DISTANCE


THE TWELVE HOUR SUN CLOCK


This temple is maintained by Tanjore king and its very clean.

Siva here is called as Sivayoganathar.The name has a short tale. Brahma and 6 yogis did deep penance towards Siva.Siva made all 7 into divine light and absorbed them. Hence Siva is called Sivayoganathar.

The temple is very old and has been here  for Four Yugas. Siva here was called as Puradaneswarar,Vilvavaneswarar and Yoganadhiswarar in older Yugas and Sivayoganathar in the current Yuga.

As we circumambulate the temple we can see the sculpture of Yuyavanthanayanar who was born here.He had written Thiruvunthiar an important book explaining Saiva Sidhantham.On the right side we can see another highlight of the temple.

That is Sadhurakala bairavar.Sadhura means four.Corresponding to Lord Siva, Bairavar also has four forms corresponding to four Yugas.He is called Gnanakala bairavar,Sornakala bairavar,Unmatha bairavar and Yogabairavar.

Just opposite to the amman shrine on top of the wall we can see the "time",provided sun is not covered by clouds.
We were at the temple at around 6pm and so the day had ended as per Chozha's clock.
The clock shows 12 hours from 6am to 6 pm based on the reflection of the sun on the needle.
The  numerals were added later by the British.
Religion, Spirituality and Science all together at Thiruvisainallur.



KOVILVENNI:

Next day we had decided to visit two temples near Needamangalam.

One was Kovil Venni and the next one was Poovanur.With Gprs on from Madhanam inn(the hotel we had stayed) we came to darasuram and then hit the Valangaiman, Papanasam road and reached a place called Ammapettai.From there we have to reach the Tanjore, nagapattinam highway and take the path heading towards Nagapattinam.

A 5 -6 km drive brings us to this small hamlet right on the national highway.A left cut brings us to this historic site.

Kovilvenni dates back to 100 – 200 AD(No inscriptions to back this claim).Karikalan is everybody's fantasy. When we were kids and if you are fond of tamil no one can forget Karikalan who had built Kallanai which is the oldest dam in the world.Karikalan had to be the king when he was very young because of his father's demise.His rightful throne was usurped and the kid was driven away. Karikalan had stayed at a place called Panaiyur where he had spent his early childhood apparently protected by Vinayagar.
From here he had gone to Karur. He started learning the nuances of war and started aggregating a cavalry and an army as well. The wrongful rulers of chola kingdom came to know this and sent an elephant to track him. The elephant tracked him at Karuvur where he was arrested and imprisoned at a place called Parasalur. The prison was set fire. Karikalan escaped but his leg was charred. Hence he was later called Karikalan(charred leg).

He came back like a phoenix,routed cheras and pandiyas at this place Venni,called as Venni war.This history is well portrayed in Patthupattu(ten idylls).Karikala became a powerful king and went on to conquer the entire Ceylon subsequently.
Chera king was defeated in this battle and was wounded in his back which apparently was an insult to his ego.He starved himself to death.


KARIKALAN TEMPLE-WAITING FOR THE IYER


THE SERENE POND INFRONT OF THE TEMPLE


THE AERIAL VIEW OF KOVIL VENNI TEMPLE


DILAPIDATED STATE OF THE TEMPLE


HOLY TREE OF THE TEMPLE-NANDHI OR VENNI


PIDARI-ARROGANTLY GRACEFUL


By gods grace I had seen panaiyur,parasalur and now venni also.Siva made sure I had seen these three temples with my father.Karikalan must have missed his father at his tender age,but I have the comfort of my father with me which is akin to 1000 elephants.

Such a historical temple was closed when we reached at 9 am.The Iyer of the temple had written his contact number on the wall – 9626769424.He stays 5 kms away and comes when called I think.First call he was bathing next call eating and next call on the way. Karikalan waited for 18 years and we waited for an hour.Two more cars joined us and another young gentleman also came to the temple.Finally the Iyer arrived. The Temple was very old and the entire outer praharam was dilapidated.

Two families  had come with sugar packets and gave it to the Iyer. After keeping the sugar packets in front of god and praying the Iyer bought the sugar packets and gave back to them. He instructed them to scatter the sugars on the walls of the temple.The ants will eat the sugar which will indirectly eat the diabetes, and my god “diabetes is cured”.
Siva here is called as Karumbeshwarar and and he offers simple treatment for diabetes.The true legend for Karumbeshwarar is different.Two sages had  come to this temple and they had an argument which is the holy tree of this temple.One wanted it to be Karumbu(sugarcane) and another wanted it to be Venni flowers. Siva told them at this place call me Karumbeshwarar and let the holy tree be Venni.
Siva has played the role of third umpire as well.
As we drove out of the temple we stopped at the Pidari temple(native mother goddess).
Karikalan had taken her blessings before starting the war. We need to take her blessings to seek contentment in life.

POOVANUR:

Back to national highways and our next stop was Needamangalam.From Needamanagalam a left cut and that road goes to Mannargudi. A five km drive brings us to Poovanur. A small bridge on the right can be seen. Once we cross this bridge we can see the temple where Sathurnagavalabanathar, resides.

Sathurangavallabanathar? The legend behind this was very interesting.

There is a king by name Vasudevan and he does not have a kid. His prayers for kid are finally answered at Tirunelveli were Siva tells him in his dreams you will soon get a beautiful girl and she will be accompanied by a female protector Samundi.

One day the king took a boat and was cruising in Tambiraparani river when he found a beautiful chonk(sangu).He took the sangu which transformed to a beautiful infant.The gleeful king and his wife named the little kid as Rajarajeshwari.The female goddess Samundeshwari became the foster mother of the kid.Rajarajeshwari was a wealth of knowledge and she became and authority in chess.No body can beat her and infact the king proclaimed she will be married to any person who can beat her in chess.

The king accompanied by Rajarajeshwari and Samundeshwari came to Poovanur one day.An old man came to see the king.He asked the king whether your daughter can play chess against him.He also said if she loses the game will he give her to him as promised.The King and Rajarajeshwari took up the challenge.

The old man defeated  Rajarajasehwari. The king said "Yes you won, so u can marry her."The old man was actually Siva. He transformed himself and showed his true self.

That is the story of Sathuranga(chess)vallava(expert)nathar(god).


THE GOPURA OF THE CHESS KING


INSIDE SANCTUM


THE THIRD GODDESS-SAMUNDI-DOCTOR WHO TREATS ALL BITES


ON EITHER SIDE SHRINES OF TWO FEMALE GODDESSES


THE KING WHOSE DAUGHTER LOST TO SIVA,IN CHESS


The temple has three Ammans (three female goddesses).One is Rajarajeswari and the other one is Karpakavalli. Samundeshwari has a separate third shrine here. The other place Samundi has a separate shrine  is at Mysore.

She is famous here and treats different bites and stings with just a sacred thread.


It was indeed a peaceful day.From understanding the illogical remedies for cancerains,taurians, magical treatment for diabetes and after meeting Dr Samundi at Poovanur,Lord siva was transcending with a smile.Days with Siva are always self learning and soul searching. Knowledge is not a requirement to be with him. A sort of enlightment,peace and self belief comes when we walk across his temples.We have to just feel him and remedies for almost everything sets in for 24 hours in a day unlike the scientific 12 hour clock.
When that happens definition of true love comes.

Addendum:
Thiruvisainallur, Poovanur and Karkadeshwarar temple was visited by Thirugnanasambandar.
Kovil venni by Appar and Thirugnanasambandar.













Sunday 17 December 2017

SIVA'S FOOT PRINT - CAMBODIA - KBAL SPEAN - RIVER OF 1000 LINGAS,DEVARAJA CULT AND TRIMURTHI

Cambodian King Suryavarman 1 did not sleep .So many deaths. If death had come due to invasion from enemies he would have been happy.
But what is happening now is gruesome.If people die due to starvation the King is accountable.As a King Suryavarman duty is to protect his kingdom and also provide security and food for the people.
People believe me as god.They call me "Devaraja".
Nonsense- "I have prayed so many times and If I'm god I had instructed the  nature as well.Where is rain"?
"Am 'I devaraja - I'm a man, ordinary man doing the work of god".Self realisation for Suryavarman 1 had started.
"My father and fore fathers did not understand the truth.I can realise and understand, I can become Sivam but not Sivan".
"With me Devaraja - will end".
He arranged an urgent meeting with his council of ministers.
All were standing in front of the emperor.
"Tonle slap river is dry sir".
"No rain has made the matter worse sir".
"The reservoir can hold water only for few more days sir and after that the palace also may become dry".
"What to do"?
"Trimurthi only can help"!
"Whatever food is available at our storage let it be given to the needy" said the Devaraja.
"I don't want my people to suffer".
"We shall meet later".
Suryavarman was sitting alone.
His close friend was with him.He was his minister as well.
"Shall we go to Kbal Spean".
His dutiful friend and confidant said" Yes,Varma we shall".
"Can you walk up".
"Yes, I want to go to the hillock and pray from there,I'm doing this for my people".
"Both of us alone can go".
"I don't want anyone else two studs should do "was the instruction.
From Suryavarman's palace the ride was around 55 Kms.
Two white horses took both of them in an hour's time.
Kbal spean is a small mountain from which the  river which comes to Siem reap(old Angkor) originates.
The river feeds the Khmer kingdom and if it goes dry drought creeps in.
Surya varman 1, started climbing.
It was dry and hot.
Both of them took tender coconuts to keep their thirst at bay.
The path was tough but they were able to negotiate.Few villagers noticed the King and fell on his feet.
They helped his friend to cut the weeds encroaching the path.
After an hour of trekking they came to the top.
"Sir, the waterfall has totally dried up".
Suryavarman was tired mentally and few drops of tears trickled.
He asked all the villagers to go away.
He sat with his friend and started meditating.
"Trimurthi you should save the kingdom".
He sat in total penance for several hours.
All of a sudden a chill breeze swept the hillock.
Grey clouds gathered.
His friend opened the eyes.
Yes,the blue sunny sky turned totally grey now.
Few drops fell.
Then few more.
Then a drizzle and finally a downpour.
The sky was lit up by lightning.
Suryavarman was crying and it could not be noticed because of the rain.
He hugged his friend.
Trimurthi had answered.
Vishnu had saved us.
Siva for a change has avoided a destruction.
Brahma can now help us in producing good children.
The King and his friend waited till the rain finished which took full 4 hours.
As they walked down Suryavarman pointed out the waterfall now streaming down beautifully.
Villagers ran and fell on the  Devaraja foot.
Suryavarman ate with his villagers and came to his palace next day.
"Sahasralingam(1000 lingas) should be there".
"Our entire country should be blessed by Trimurthi".
"You are my best friend".
"Do it and come".
"I'm telling you this as my friend and not as a King"."You were with me when I was down and you are with me when I win and you will be with me when I die".
"I believe you, like I believe Siva".
"Will you do it for me"? Suryavarman was talking continuoslly.
"Should you ask me",was the answer from his friend.
"1000 lingas will be there"."Devaraja,you will see it on top of the hill"
"It will be built soon".
"Vishnu and Brahma will be there".
"From where the river starts they will bless us."
"Trimurthi will bless the origin of the river".
"The river will never dry up if they bless us from the top".
 "I will do it and come Devaraja"
The minister and 100 people  went to the hillock to carve 1000 lingas on top of the mountain.
These people settled there, meditated and did Puja at Kbal spean.
After few years the minister came to meet the King.
"Sir, I have finished the job".
"You have to come and see".
The friends hugged each other - "We shall see the true Devaraja"?
"I'm not the true Devaraja - Trimurthi are the real deva - real gods.
"Buddha is their avatar.Buddha also is a Devaraja".
"I have and I'm full of desires how can I, be called Devaraja".
"With me this cult will be over".
"Am I correct "- asked the King.
Suryavarman eyes were calmness personified and his friend held his hands and kissed.


Kbal means -Head and Spean means Bridge.

THE ENTRY POINT- A VISUAL GUIDE

THE HIKE, AT TIMES HELPED WITH WOODEN STEPS

THE DIRECTIONS

A SERENE WALK UP

CLOSE TO THE NATURE



When I trekked this small mountain I was alone.
It was 7am the security checked my travel pass and allowed me.
Sary,my tour guide told me "It's safe".
I asked the security again "Is it safe to climb up alone".
He said "No worry sir, perfect".
I climbed and it was easy.
I did not experience the difficulties of Suryavarman as the path  on the mountain  is negotiable.
After 800 meters a security man asked me "Alone sir".
I said "Yes,I'm always alone".
He also climbed with me.
"Sir, see the rock on the left".
Nandhi was there,on the rock.
"Look on the left sir".
Small, small lingas on the flat rock, actually its a river bed.
Water was running over it.
I touched them and prayed,kissed also.
The waterfall could be seen between the trees.
"I asked him can we go and see the waterfall".
"Sir, just few meters you will be there".
Holy water.
I drenched my head and the water was chilly and nice.
"Vishnu",he yelled.
A beautiful Vishnu was seen on the river bed with Brahma arising from the navel.A mix of Khmer craftsmanship,spirituality and divinity could be envisoned.
Cambodian kings worshipped all three gods and some of them had more affinity towards Vishnu.
Brahma was next to him.
I sat there.


HOLY WATERFALL


NANDHI - THE HOLY BULL

The security asked me" Coming up".
I told "Wait please", recited Sivapuranam and meditated for some time.
Few meters there was a pleateau.
Kbal means head.Two rocks make the head.
Spean means bridge.
The flat rock mimicking a pleateau is the bridge.
Yes, water was flowing underneath.
"Look the other side,on the right"
Vishnu again beautifully chiseled out.
Small lingas surrounding him.
Few steps further, Brahma again.


THE HERMITS


HANUMAN


THE CROCODILE


SIVA AND PARVATHI AS UMA MAHESHWARAR SEATED ON NANDHI

WATER SANCTIFIED BY LINGAS

SAHASRALINGAS - 1000 LINGAS


PANCHALINGAS(5LINGAS) ON THE PEDESTAL


VISHNU LYING ON THE SERPENT

VISHNU AGAIN





WATER FLOWING UNDERNEATH THE BRIDGE WITH CARVINGS OF VISHNU AND LINGA.
BRAHMA ARISING FROM THE NAVEL OF VISHNU CAN BE SEEN.

THE PEDESTAL ALONE PROBABLY HAD THE GOLDEN LINGA

BRAHMA SITTING ON THE LOTUS

THE RIVER FLOWING FROM ONE SIDE,BRAHMA WITH THREE HEADS.



THE BRIDGE BETWEEN TWO ROCKS-KBAL SPEAN




The carvings of Siva and Parvathi sitting on the bull,Lakshmi and Hanuman were unbelievably and beautifully chiseled out on the rocks and the river bed. When water is more these carvings cannot be seen.
I was lucky to see Trimurthi.
In India  Brahma has only five temples at Puskar,Goa,Bangalore,Trivandrum and a village called Thirupattur near Thiruchi.
Siva,Vishnu and Brahma are seen together only in few places.
I can recollect a Uthamar temple at Thiruchi and a temple in Kerala.
One at cambodia.
Technically Kbal spean is not a temple. These are carvings on the stone.
Surya varman was  a Buddhist but he had firm belief on Trimurthi also.
He was tolerant to all religions and he had trade and military connections with Rajendra chozhan.
Infact Rajendra chozhan helped Suryavarman in his war against Srivijaya kingdom(present Indonesia)
Surya varman died in 1050 AD.
His successor was Udayaaditya varman who also contributed for the carvings at Kbal spean.
The golden linga was made by Udaiyadityavarman,in 1059AD and installed here.Its untraceble now.

Suryavarman did two improtant things.
Kings are not Gods. He ended "Devaraja cult".It however came back later.Devaraja Cult is essentially the King is God and the Cambodian,Khmer Kings propogated themselves as impersonation of god - Siva.Devaraja cult came back with Jayavarman 7 in the form of Buddhist incarnation.
Suryavarman 1,also ended a 250 year old "Sivakaivalya concept".
The Khmer kings had a royal priest. They will do coronation of the King and also acted as spirtual guru for the Kings.They had their own palace and a family tree.This was Sivakaivalya concept.
Suryavarman and subsequently Udayaadityavarman ended the royal priest culture but they never knew after 200 years their palaces and temples will be shattered and ruined.


Addendum:
Surya varman 1 is different from Suryavarman 2. Suryavarman 2 built the Angkor Vat.
This area was discovered by a French man, Jean boulbot in 1969.He died in 2007 at Phuket,Thailand and his ashes were dispersed at Kbal spean.
The present Siem reap was Khmer capital before.
Tonle sap river flows in the heart of the town and it originates from Kbal spean.
Kbal Spean can be reached from Siem reap where there are lots of places to stay.
Air Asia flies from Chennai and Cochin to Siem reap via Bangkok and Kuala Lumpur.
Air Srilanka also has flights.
Local commutation is by Tuk Tuk which makes an amazing travel experience.
Siem Reap is very safe.
A three day pass to Angkor temples and Kbal spean costs 62 USD and a one day pass is 37 USD.