PHNOM BAKHENG - 108 SIVA TEMPLES AND AN ASTRONOMICAL CALENDER BUILT ON A HILLOCK

Yashovarman was sitting alone.
He had just finished the magnificent reservoir.
It was meant for his people.He had become the emperor of Hariharalaya.
"Yashovarman your eyes are Vedas and your hands are justice".
When his poet said this, Yashovarman just asked him to sit down. Yashovarman knew the reality of life.
People call him Devaraja too.
How come devaraja have this disease?
It all started as a painless patch which Yashovarman chose to neglect.
The hair then started falling from his eyebrows.
The worst part was the wrinkles and furrows which had appeared on Yashovarman's face.

The self realisation had started in him. He felt he had everything and infact he had inherited a legacy which knew only victory.Why did he get it?

Yashovarman knew he had leprosy.
That's life.
His only source of solace was helping people and thinking of lord Siva,now.

Leprosy was death.
Curse of God.
My minister is making a story that the king had conquered the Naga and the Naga's blood had smeared his face and body.

He was further enlightened by his Guru.

When he has no work he sits with the Brahmanan.

His Guru was supreme Brahmanan.
The Brahmanans had come from India.

They preached about Adisankarar and his compassion to people.
His mind, soul and body gets enriched when the enlightened Brahmin talks.

Even when he has work Yashovarman comes and sits with the descendant of Adisankarar.

THE LIONS GUARDING THE HILLOCK

THE MELANCHOLIC FIRST LOOK AS WE ARRIVE AT THE TOP

EACH TERRACE HAS 12 SANCTUMS LIKE THIS

THE CENTRAL SANCTUM,DEPICTING THE ATHMA OR SOUL OR SIVA

BEAUTIFUL DEVATAS ON THE SIDES WELCOMING US

THE CENTRAL SANCTUM NOW HAS A BUDDHIST MONK

ONE SANCTUM HAVING A SIVA LINGAM

FOUR CORNER SANCTUMS ON TOP

THE BASE,FIVE TERRACES AND THE TOP ONE MAKES SEVEN HEAVENS

THE HOLY BULL OR NANDHI GUARDING THE HILL

"What is 108? and why it is so special sir?"
The King asked his guru.
"Sir,it's 109 and not 108".
"The 109 is lord Siva or the athma".
"The athma has to reach Siva".
"If Siva decides he can make everyone and the entire universe into unison at 109".
"He is the center".
"Around him the world rotates".
"The lunar month is 27 days and it  has 4 cycles. When we multiply it becomes 108".  

"All 33 gods of Siva and the world belongs to and revolve around Siva".
"That's why devaraja the mala which we usually pray with  has 108 beads."
"The 109th one is everyone's athma".
 "The concept of  athma searching lord Siva is realisation , the path of reaching him is sprirituality and when we reach him we become Sivam"
The king was not sure.He clasped his hands and fell on his Guru's feet and then  walked off.
Yashovarman did not sleep at that night.
109 and the Meru mountain should be together.
The people should understand the mighty of lord Siva and his love for all.
Siva will be at the center.
I had seen the place.
I know where it has to be built.
I know everyplace of my kingdom.
Like my father I also should be buried there.
Hariharalaya has severe water scarcity.
The population has grown.
The resettlement will happen in a new place.
Blessed by Siva and his concept of 108.
I will soon die because of leprosy.
Before that I shall build a new place,new settlement for my people with the blessings of the almighty.
On a hillock and that will be mount Meru.
Siva will be the fulcrum there.
All 108 forms of Siva will be there.

The king summoned the chief architect.
"Yes sir".
"We are going tomorrow and I will show you a place".
"Around that place we are shifting the new capital".
"We should do it soon".

The Angkor vat came into existence this way.
The new city was called Yashodarapura.
The mountain was called as Phnom Bakheng.
On top of it a main temple was built and it had Sivalingam,

which was called ""Yashodaraeshwara. It was installed in 907AD,.three years before Yashovarman's death who was posthumously called "Paramaasivaloka".

Around the main sanctum there were four more sanctums.
The base had four entrances and it is surrounded by 44 sanctums.
On the way to the top of the hillock there are five terraces.
Each terrace has 12 sanctums.This number 12 corresponds to the Jupiter's 12 year cycle in a human beings life.
So in total we have 44 plus 60 plus 4 and plus 1.
Totally 109.
The central sanctum is the main sanctum depicting Siva and around him everything revolves.
The base plus 5 terraces and the top level makes 7 levels corresponding to 7 heavens.
This was deciphered and understood by Jean Fillozat, a french scholar.

The temple is just infront of the gateway to Angkor Thom complex.
If we are coming from Angkor vat towards Angkor Thom complex we need to take a left and we will see the small mountain.

ANGKORVAT CAN BE VIEWED FROM THIS HILLOCK

Two lions will welcome us.
There are steps which has no access.
The current path can be accessed around the mountain by walk or with the help of the elephant too.
When I walked with my guide there were no one.
This place becomes crowded and vibrant during sunrise or sunset as visitors throng this place to see the glimpse of Angkor from here.
I was there at 10 am.
It's just a 500 meter walk and once we reach the summit the experience to see the hillock with so many sanctums  and most of them damaged badly was something which can be felt for the viewer only .
Just in front of the hillock we can see the beautiful Nandhi.(Sacred bull)
It's still there and prayers are still offered for this Nandhi.
Most of the sanctums are broken and I could see some sanctums having the Sivalingam.
The main one also is badly damaged and a small hermit statue is present  now.
I sat there and could feel Yashovarman and his feelings.
His staunch belief on Siva has made him immortal .
Yashovarman had engineered a brilliant Siva cosmology, 1300 years ago on a hillock.
The main sanctum does not have Siva.
Siva has three forms.
One is Nataraja which everyone can see.
The second one is form and formless which Yashovarman had installed in 108 sanctums as Sivalingam.
The other form of Siva is formless which he had taken at this place and only the discerning can understand this.

Angkorvat visit is never complete without visiting this temple which an American scholar Paul Wheatley aptly called as "An astronomical calender built in a single stone"

Addendum:

Hariharalaya was the first capital of the Khmer empire in Cambodia.

Now its called Roulous.
Yashovarman ruled Hariharalaya between 889 to 910 AD . He shifted his capital to Yashodarapura and this temple was built by him.
Yashovarman did have leprosy and the Terrace of leper king was built for this king at Angkor thom complex.

About reaching Siem reap,kindly go through Kbal spean blog.

Jean Fillozat is a french doctor. He lived in Pondicherry as well and established the French institute of Pondicherry.He deciphered the logic behind this temple,in 1944 and he is well versed in Tamil and Sanskrit.
Phnom means mountain.

KULITHALAI,IYERMALAI AND EINGOIMALAI -THREE ABODES OF SIVA

Siva often throws up challenges to his followers.Seeing him at three different places in a single day is one of the challenges he poses at Kulithalai.To add spice to the challenge two temples are on hilltops.
The three temples are to be seen in this order.
Kulithalai Siva temple - Kadambavaneshwarar should be seen in the morning.
Iyermalai Siva temle - Rathnapureshwarar at noon.
Eingoimalai Siva temple - Siva's date with us here is at evening.

KULITHALAI:

Earnestly taking up the challenge to see the master two of us travelled to Kulithalai.
Chennai to Trichi highway is a  carpet road and a double laner.The drive will make the  enthusiastic car driver happy.120 km per hour is easily achievable in this express way.
Watch out for the right cut near Samayapuram towards Karur.
A 35 km ride twords this road brings us to Kulthalai.
This road is very scenic with cauvery flowing on the left.On the way there is Gunaseelam a sacred Vishnu temple and also Thiruvasi where siva resides.
Due to want of time and fear of missing the morning appointment with lord Siva at Kulithalai we drove direct to Kulithalai.

THE ENTRANCE OF THE TEMPLE

The temple is on the left side on the main highway.Very easy to spot and we need not enter the town.

The temple is smallish but looks good.

As we enter the temple we can see Siva's idol from a distance which is a remarkable way of building a temple in those days.this methodology is seen in many temples where we can see the lord from the entrance itself because the flooring just slops down and at the sanctum Siva on a pedestal can be easily seen and his blessings sought even without entering the temple.

GOPURA DARISANAM

The legend of the temple now

Dumrasalonan was equal to Siva.He had powers which could not be controlled by Devas.

Devas ran to Parvathi.

"Goddess please save us".

"Dumrasalonan is creating havoc".

"He wants our creed to be demolished".

"You should have told Siva".Parvathi answered.

"No Siva said he will not intervene because dumrasalonan is his disciple".

"Ok,I will destroy him".

"Durga will take care of him,all of you can disperse" was Paravathi's curt reply.

The fight between Dumrasalonan and Durga was protracted.

Durga for a change could not vanquish Siva's disciple.

Durga had to retreat and a furious Parvathy decided to send Saptha kannis(Seven forms of goddess Parvathi).

The seven incarnation's of Parvathy started the battle against Dumrasalonan.

Sanity prevailed as Dumrasalonan could not fight the fury of the goddesses.

Dumrasalonan ran out the war field and entered a hut and hid himself.

The hut had a Maharishi who was in a deep penance.

Sapthakannis entered the hut and saw the maharishi meditating.

They mistook Maharishi as Dumrasalonan and killed him.
They understood their folly immediately.

Sapthakannis ran to Siva.

"We have committed the biggest sin" .

"Kindly save us".

"We were unable to kill Dumrasalonan and also we had killed a Maharishi".

Siva smiled.

 "You can never kill a true disciple of mine and also Parvathi cannot take a decision without consulting me".

"I can only take him when I want".

"Dumrasalonan is already with me".

"You can also stay with me".

"I will protect you".

 Siva protects all.

As per the legend Sapthakannis are present behind Sivalingam.

Once we started circumambulating I did notice the difference of seeing the Sandikeshwarar at the left side as he is usually positioned in the right side.

Siva is looking towards north.

He came in front of sapthakannis in Kadamba Vimanam in the northern side, hence the temple looks northward.

So we can see Sandikeshwarar on the left and Dakshinamurthy on the right.

 Apart from Thirunavukarasar who had visited this place Arunagirinathar also had come to this sacred place.

He has praised lord Murugan who looks lovely with six hands aptly described by Arunagirinathar as this Murugan is equivalent to six sacred abodes of lord Murugan.

We spent few minutes meditating at the temple and then started towards Iyer malai.

IYERMALAI:

THE ENTRY

SAPTHAKANNIS UNDER A CLIFF

To reach Iyer malai one has to take the route towards Thiruchi and after few kms a left cut towards Virali malai and further down for 12 kms will bring us to Iyer malai.

Iyer malai has 1150 steps.

Few shops are present at the base of the hill.

Better to take few water bottles and some biscuits as there are no shops enroute.

It's better to have these water bottles in your trousers as monkeys are rampant here.

If you have a bag make sure you carry a stick with you.

Monkeys do attack here.All monkeys are not Hanumans.

There is a chatiram(Motel) built by Chozha Vellalars but it was closed.

It's a 45 minute walk up and stamina is required to do this.

Steps are small and easily negotiable.

It's better not to climb if it's hot.

Sun had taken a temporary break as he had disappeared behind the brownish clouds.

1150 steps were a breeze and as we climb on the left a small hillock with a idol of Muruga is seen.

People worship the Kodimaram before ascending.

After few steps Hanuman is present apparently giving us the energy to climb.

After a few hundred steps on the left we can see Sapthakannis beautifully placed under a small cliff.

Beware once again of monkeys.

63 NAYANAMARS

THE ENTRANCE TO AMBAL SHRINE

THE FINAL STOP

The first stop is Ambal (Goddess)shrine and from there a small climb up brings us to lord Siva.

On the left of the final destination we can see 63 nayanmars and a Balipeedam looking towards Siva.

We need to climb few more steps and then enter the sanctum.

On the left we can see Perumal first and then when we enter inside we are greeted by Nandhikeshwarar.

He looks beautiful as always.

It was around 1230 pm and afternoon Pooja was going on.

We were lucky to witness this hourlong Pooja.

A gathering of around 40 should be there.

For a change the Iyer was doing a magnificent job.

He was doing the Pooja with immense dedication starting with Vinayagar,Nandhi, Lord Siva and finally Perumal.

Lord Siva was bathed with lime juice,apple etc.

Before doing every Pooja Iyer explained with what he is doing.

It's was great to watch and exhilarating as well.

The sweaty feel which we had after the walk had evaporated as Siva was gleaming infront of us.

THE MOUNTAIN VIEW

A BIG STONE WITH AN IDOL-SAGUNA KUNDRU?

The myth now.

"I need elephants to fight the enemies",the Aryan king was telling his minister.

"To buy elephants they are asking emeralds".

"Where to get emeralds"? the king asked.

"Sir emeralds are at present available only in south India".

"If we can go there with lot of money we can get it from the Chozha king".

"Let us do it".

"I shall go myself along with few confidants".

"You be in charge till I come back",said the King.

A sternous journey for months brought him to the Tamil kingdom.

"We welcome you sir to our kingdom".

Chozha king played a perfect host.

The Aryan king was very happy.

"Despite being a Muslim you treated me kindly".

"Sir, I need emeralds to buy elephants".

"We shall pay you".

"I will be happy if you can give us".

Chozha king said, "Before I part with emeralds I need to ask my council of ministers.I don't decide alone".

The king said "I shall wait".

As the sun was setting down the Aryan king went for a walk.

He was pointing towards Iyer malai and asked the villagers "What is there on top?".

The villagers said lord Siva.

He is also called as" Madhyana Sokkar sir".

Why?.

Because we worship him in the afternoon after being blessed in the morning at Kulithalai.

"He will give us whatever we want".

"Will he give me emeralds"?.

"I'm a Muslim may be he may not".

"No sir,you go and pray he will give you whatever you want".

Come up,come up-some strange voice.

I heard something asking me to come up.

Should I go up?.

Come up.

Sometimes heart overturns mind.

The Aryan king started climbing up taking the cue from his heart.

He reached the top.

Siva was there as a huge idol.

"Did you ask me to come up".

He never talks.

"What's happening?".

A old man was sleeping.

The King sat next to him.

Wind was caressing both of them.

"Do u want some water".

The alarmed king opened his eyes and he could see the old man offering him some water.

"Yes why not"?.

"What had bought you here"?,asked the old man.

"I come from North India and I need emeralds".

"How much u want"?.

"Can you give". 

"Yes".

"I will pay you".

"No people come to this mountain to pray lord Siva".

"They need water to quench the thirst".

"Can you fill that pit with water.

"I'm a old man I can't do, can you do it for me".

"If you do it I will give you emeralds".

"You can open the bag I always have precious stones".

The king opened the bag and it contained lots of emeralds and diamonds.

"I will do it old man".

"I hope you don't cheat me".

The old man smiled.

The King started to pour water from the well into the bucket and transferred into the pit.

To his dismay everytime he filled the pit the water disappeared.

"What's happening"?.

The emeralds are in the bag.

So near so far.

"Hi old man".

"You are playing."

"This job cannot be finished so you threw up this challenge".

"I will kill you".

"You can".

"Come up kill me".

The old man entered the sanctum.

The King found no one except the Sivalingam standing tall and strong infront of him.

He drew the sword and cut the Lingam.

Lord took it on his forehead and held his sword.

"Dear King you had come all the way from North India to protect your people and your kingdom".

"You live for the people".

"Allah and Siva are the same".

"Collect the bag and go".

"Sufficient emeralds and diamonds are there".

"Save your people and kingdom".

"Tell your people that all religions are same".

"Show love and bury the swords".

The King got what he wanted.

He went back to his kingdom and made all religions equal.

He made peace with his surrounding Kingdoms.

The King got emeralds but the most important lesson he learnt was how to live.

Lord Siva here is hence called as Vatpoki nathar.(Val-sword,poki nathar-lord held the sword)

Descent was a breeze.

Egan- anegan,one God many forms-Allah for muslims,Siva for hindus.

Siva is the ultimate teacher.

EINGOIMALAI:

THE ASCENT TOWARDS EINGOIMALAI

THE ENTRANCE OF EINGOIMALAI

DWARAPALAKAS PROTECTING THE INNER SANCTUM

We drove back to Kulithalai and had a mini lunch.

It was 230 pm as sun was beating down.

A 3 km drive brings us to Musiri and from there a left cut brings us to Namakkal.

A few kms and a right brings us to Eingoimalai.

Eingoimalai is a small hillock.

Around 500 steps.

"Sticks not required",two oldies instructed us.

I asked "Why,monkeysss?".

"No you will not find monkeys here".

I threw the stick and started climbing the hillock.

Steps are little rough but can be climbed easily.

A small Vinayagar welcomes us on the left.

After seeking his blessings we enter the sanctum.

A small well maintained temple.

Seeing Siva is a bliss.

Reciting sivapuranam infront of him gives more happiness.

Kodimaram in this temple as well as Iyermalai has a unique feature.

The top of the Kodimaram is left out of the roof.

Nakkerar has sung Eingoi70(70 songs  praising the lord).

THE KODIMARAM GOING OUT OF THE TEMPLE BUILDING

The legend.

Agathiar had just walked down to this temple and he was not able to enter the temple as it was locked.

"Siva you had asked me to go to South india".

"Because of this I'm unable to see the spectacle of your marriage".

"I came to this holy temple and could not see you",he lamented".

"Agathia transform yourself into a fly and enter the sactum".

Agathiar prayed to Siva and transformed himself to a fly and entered the temple.
Hence this temple is called as Eingoimalai(E means fly,malai means mountain)

THE LORD

A youngish Iyer explained about the temple and the temple is open from 7 Am till 6 pm.
He stays downhill and appeared friendly.
I started descending and I did not feel any tiredness.
A sort of calmness engulfed when driving back from Eingoimalai.
Drive back to Pondicherry was quick and good but seeing Siva at three different places at three different timings and seeking his blessings was like icing on the cake.

KUMBAKONAM BASED SIVASTHALANGAL-PART3

This will be the third part about Siva temples in and around Kumbakonam.

In this part we shall see four temples which are important not only because they have been visited by Appar and Thirugnanasambandar but these temples are important Parihara(remedy) temples.

Parihara temples is just a marketing gimmick to make a temple famous.

When Thirugnanasambandar wanted to go to Pandya kingdom he was restrained by Appar.

"Don't go now as the planets are not good for you" - Appar said this to Thirugnanasambandar.

The answer given by Thirugnanasambandar was simple.

"I believe in Siva and all planets are offshoots of Siva and they can't do anything to me" was Sambandars reply.

What Sambandar subsequently did with Pandian and Pandya kingdom is history.

Believe and pray to Siva rest will be taken care of automatically.

KARKADESHWARAR TEMPLE:

To go to Karkadeswarar temple if we are coming from Chennai or Pondicherry we have to take the NH45c to Kumbakonam. We have to cross Thirupanandhal and then we have to look for an arts college by name Mass college of arts and science. The college is on the left side of the highway. The next left cut is non descript and does not have any directions. We have to drive through that smallish road.

A drive of 1.5 kms brings us to this temple which is fully surrounded by paddy fields.

When ever I go to these less visited Devarapadal petra sthalams, I often see people flock towards Parihara sthalams.Despite being in a relatively inaccessible area few vehicles were standing near the temple.

This temple is a Parihara sthalam for people who are sick and also for people who have "Kadaga Rasi",(Cancer Zodiac sign).

The story of this temple also revolves around Kadagam meaning Nandu and crab in English.

THE BACK DROP

CHANDRAN -MOON GOD -IN PERMANENT PENANCE

THE MYTH AS STONE ENGRAVINGS

DHANVANTRI AND AGATHIAR HAVE WORSHIPPED SIVA HERE

THE ENTRANCE WITH MY LIVING GOD SITTING

INNER PRAHAAM SHOWING AMMAN SHRINE

What did the crab do here?Kantharvan is our hero here.As the name suggests he is a handsome man and women flock around him.When he was walking around this place he saw a old man in deep penance.Unfortunately Kantharvan did not know he is Durvasar the temperamental sage. Kantharvan did not like the old man and started teasing him.

He crawled like a crab mimicking the old sage. Duruvasar broke the penance and cursed him to become a crab. Kantharvan pleaded ignorance but Duruvasar told him pray like me to siva here and he alone can give you the Kantharva roobam(Original look).Kantharva in the form of crab started its worship of Siva.

At the same time lord Indra came down to this place to offer pooja and prayers to Siva  in order to acquire powers to annihilate evil demons.

He picked up 1008 sunflowers to do pooja daily. One flower was missing daily. The missing flower was taken by the crab for its prayers to, Lord Siva. The crab used to climb on Siva Linga with the flower and put it on his head on offer prayers.

Indran found this and hit the crab with his sword and before it could hit the crab the lingam opened itself on top and took the crab, inside.

Siva gives Kantharuban his original form and admonishes Indran to control his anger if he wants to kill Asuras. Hence this place is called as Nandu kovil locally and has subsequently become a remedy temple for Cancerians.

This temple is also called as Thiruthevankudi meaning Thirunthia(corrected)Thevan(lord indra)Kudi(village).

THIRUVISAINALLUR:

Thiruvisainallur is just two kms from Karkadeshwarar temple. A straight road on the right side takes  us to this big temple.Just from nowhere we suddenly visualise a big gopuram belonging to the dravidian culture. As we enter the temple my father immediately noticed a difference. He was pointing that Nandhi is present after Balipeedam which is not fitting into the pattern of Siva temples. I had already read the story behind this and told him the story.

He had just come to the entrance of the temple.He is a man who has hardly done any good things in life.Women,bribe,murder you name it he has done all. When age caught up with him he thought he should do away all his sins and started praying to lord Siva. He has now become a deep Saivite and was going to different temples. Thiruvisainallur was his next stop.

Siva knew his prodigal son is coming. All are his sons.

As he was praying to Siva some of his words could be heard by the lord.

Siva decided to have a Game.

"Nandhi somebody is calling look who is it".

Nandhikeshwarar turned and saw the man standing out.The very look of Nandhi burnt all his sins.He was made pure by the indirect act of Siva.

Inside the sanctum we can see Nandhi looking to the right side.

"Lord you have finished your act by asking me looking at him".

"Nandhikeswara the job is not  over you have a fight now"."Fight "?,Nandhi uttered and started hearing some one coming now.

Yamadarmaraja had just come.

"Why you are here sir?".

"I have come to take the man standing there with me" was the response by Yamadarman to Nandhi's question.

"I had just washed away his sins and you cant take him now".

"Dont come in my way Nandhi".

Nandhi did not buy his answer.

A fight ensued and Nandhi was the winner.Nandhi removed the balipeedam and kept ahead of him and said," You step here you are finished".

Yamadarmar ran away.

Nandhi asked Siva "Why this game lord?".

"To prove the world I'm impartial.The man who had committed lots of sins understood his fallacies totally and I wanted to pardon him and give him more life on earth so that people like him will see him as an example and change".

Nandhikeswarar understood and hope we also understand.

This apparently made people think and make this temple a remedy temple for Taurus,zodiac sign.

DRAVIDIAN STYLE GOPURAM

NANDHI BETWEEN BALIPEEDAM AND KODIMARAM

A WELL MAINTAINED TEMPLE-COURTESY TANJORE KINGS

THE BAIRAVAS OF DIFFERENT YUGAS

STATUE OF YUYAVANTHA NAYANMAR-BORN HERE

SIVAYOGANATHAR FROM A DISTANCE

THE TWELVE HOUR SUN CLOCK

This temple is maintained by Tanjore king and its very clean.

Siva here is called as Sivayoganathar.The name has a short tale. Brahma and 6 yogis did deep penance towards Siva.Siva made all 7 into divine light and absorbed them. Hence Siva is called Sivayoganathar.

The temple is very old and has been here  for Four Yugas. Siva here was called as Puradaneswarar,Vilvavaneswarar and Yoganadhiswarar in older Yugas and Sivayoganathar in the current Yuga.

As we circumambulate the temple we can see the sculpture of Yuyavanthanayanar who was born here.He had written Thiruvunthiar an important book explaining Saiva Sidhantham.On the right side we can see another highlight of the temple.

That is Sadhurakala bairavar.Sadhura means four.Corresponding to Lord Siva, Bairavar also has four forms corresponding to four Yugas.He is called Gnanakala bairavar,Sornakala bairavar,Unmatha bairavar and Yogabairavar.

Just opposite to the amman shrine on top of the wall we can see the "time",provided sun is not covered by clouds.

We were at the temple at around 6pm and so the day had ended as per Chozha's clock.

The clock shows 12 hours from 6am to 6 pm based on the reflection of the sun on the needle.

The  numerals were added later by the British.

Religion, Spirituality and Science all together at Thiruvisainallur.

KOVILVENNI:

Next day we had decided to visit two temples near Needamangalam.

One was Kovil Venni and the next one was Poovanur.With Gprs on from Madhanam inn(the hotel we had stayed) we came to darasuram and then hit the Valangaiman, Papanasam road and reached a place called Ammapettai.From there we have to reach the Tanjore, nagapattinam highway and take the path heading towards Nagapattinam.

A 5 -6 km drive brings us to this small hamlet right on the national highway.A left cut brings us to this historic site.

Kovilvenni dates back to 100 – 200 AD(No inscriptions to back this claim).Karikalan is everybody's fantasy. When we were kids and if you are fond of tamil no one can forget Karikalan who had built Kallanai which is the oldest dam in the world.Karikalan had to be the king when he was very young because of his father's demise.His rightful throne was usurped and the kid was driven away. Karikalan had stayed at a place called Panaiyur where he had spent his early childhood apparently protected by Vinayagar.

From here he had gone to Karur. He started learning the nuances of war and started aggregating a cavalry and an army as well. The wrongful rulers of chola kingdom came to know this and sent an elephant to track him. The elephant tracked him at Karuvur where he was arrested and imprisoned at a place called Parasalur. The prison was set fire. Karikalan escaped but his leg was charred. Hence he was later called Karikalan(charred leg).

He came back like a phoenix,routed cheras and pandiyas at this place Venni,called as Venni war.This history is well portrayed in Patthupattu(ten idylls).Karikala became a powerful king and went on to conquer the entire Ceylon subsequently.

Chera king was defeated in this battle and was wounded in his back which apparently was an insult to his ego.He starved himself to death.

KARIKALAN TEMPLE-WAITING FOR THE IYER

THE SERENE POND INFRONT OF THE TEMPLE

THE AERIAL VIEW OF KOVIL VENNI TEMPLE

DILAPIDATED STATE OF THE TEMPLE

HOLY TREE OF THE TEMPLE-NANDHI OR VENNI

PIDARI-ARROGANTLY GRACEFUL

By gods grace I had seen panaiyur,parasalur and now venni also.Siva made sure I had seen these three temples with my father.Karikalan must have missed his father at his tender age,but I have the comfort of my father with me which is akin to 1000 elephants.

Such a historical temple was closed when we reached at 9 am.The Iyer of the temple had written his contact number on the wall – 9626769424.He stays 5 kms away and comes when called I think.First call he was bathing next call eating and next call on the way. Karikalan waited for 18 years and we waited for an hour.Two more cars joined us and another young gentleman also came to the temple.Finally the Iyer arrived. The Temple was very old and the entire outer praharam was dilapidated.

Two families  had come with sugar packets and gave it to the Iyer. After keeping the sugar packets in front of god and praying the Iyer bought the sugar packets and gave back to them. He instructed them to scatter the sugars on the walls of the temple.The ants will eat the sugar which will indirectly eat the diabetes, and my god “diabetes is cured”.

Siva here is called as Karumbeshwarar and and he offers simple treatment for diabetes.The true legend for Karumbeshwarar is different.Two sages had  come to this temple and they had an argument which is the holy tree of this temple.One wanted it to be Karumbu(sugarcane) and another wanted it to be Venni flowers. Siva told them at this place call me Karumbeshwarar and let the holy tree be Venni.

Siva has played the role of third umpire as well.

As we drove out of the temple we stopped at the Pidari temple(native mother goddess).

Karikalan had taken her blessings before starting the war. We need to take her blessings to seek contentment in life.

POOVANUR:

Back to national highways and our next stop was Needamangalam.From Needamanagalam a left cut and that road goes to Mannargudi. A five km drive brings us to Poovanur. A small bridge on the right can be seen. Once we cross this bridge we can see the temple where Sathurnagavalabanathar, resides.

Sathurangavallabanathar? The legend behind this was very interesting.

There is a king by name Vasudevan and he does not have a kid. His prayers for kid are finally answered at Tirunelveli were Siva tells him in his dreams you will soon get a beautiful girl and she will be accompanied by a female protector Samundi.

One day the king took a boat and was cruising in Tambiraparani river when he found a beautiful chonk(sangu).He took the sangu which transformed to a beautiful infant.The gleeful king and his wife named the little kid as Rajarajeshwari.The female goddess Samundeshwari became the foster mother of the kid.Rajarajeshwari was a wealth of knowledge and she became and authority in chess.No body can beat her and infact the king proclaimed she will be married to any person who can beat her in chess.

The king accompanied by Rajarajeshwari and Samundeshwari came to Poovanur one day.An old man came to see the king.He asked the king whether your daughter can play chess against him.He also said if she loses the game will he give her to him as promised.The King and Rajarajeshwari took up the challenge.

The old man defeated  Rajarajasehwari. The king said "Yes you won, so u can marry her."The old man was actually Siva. He transformed himself and showed his true self.

That is the story of Sathuranga(chess)vallava(expert)nathar(god).

THE GOPURA OF THE CHESS KING

INSIDE SANCTUM

THE THIRD GODDESS-SAMUNDI-DOCTOR WHO TREATS ALL BITES

ON EITHER SIDE SHRINES OF TWO FEMALE GODDESSES

THE KING WHOSE DAUGHTER LOST TO SIVA,IN CHESS

The temple has three Ammans (three female goddesses).One is Rajarajeswari and the other one is Karpakavalli. Samundeshwari has a separate third shrine here. The other place Samundi has a separate shrine  is at Mysore.

She is famous here and treats different bites and stings with just a sacred thread.

It was indeed a peaceful day.From understanding the illogical remedies for cancerains,taurians, magical treatment for diabetes and after meeting Dr Samundi at Poovanur,Lord siva was transcending with a smile.Days with Siva are always self learning and soul searching. Knowledge is not a requirement to be with him. A sort of enlightment,peace and self belief comes when we walk across his temples.We have to just feel him and remedies for almost everything sets in for 24 hours in a day unlike the scientific 12 hour clock.

When that happens definition of true love comes.

Addendum:

Thiruvisainallur, Poovanur and Karkadeshwarar temple was visited by Thirugnanasambandar.

Kovil venni by Appar and Thirugnanasambandar.