Kumbakonam - the name immediately brings memories of beautiful temples,Chozha empire and Degree coffee.
Its my dream to visit all if not most of the temples in and around Kumbakonam,write a blog about it which will be useful for people who want to visit temples around Kumbakonam.Kumbakonam is not a town and it is not a city as well.Its somewhere in between.The place is well maintained,clean and Tamil culture is vibrant and written all over Kumbakonam..Every street ends or begins with a temple and most of the roads lead to the Maha maham lake.
In this first blog I would like to write about few temples around Kumbakonam which are present in Kumbakonam to Tanjore route.After visiting Thirunallar along with my parents we reached Kumbakonam at around 1.30 pm and we relaxed with a sumptuous lunch at a hotel called Rayas. The hotel was great and had great room service.At around 3.30 pm we started towards a place called Patteswaram.
Patteswaram:
From Kumbonam take the Tanjore route.After a 3 km travel take a left cut and few meters later a right cut and then a straight road.This road will pass through Darasuram and another 3 kms drive will bring us to this nice temple.
The temple was not crowded and it was not haunted as well.After entering the huge Raja gopuram one has to walk through another 50-70 meters to see the glimpse of Shiva.The most striking aspect of this sacred place and also the most unique feature is about Nandhikeswarar.He is not sitting straight towards shiva .He has stepped aside so that Shiva is visible. There must be a reason and the legends of this temple begins here.Thirugnanasambandar visited this place in a hot summer with his entourage.To surprise and make Sambandar comfortable lord himself made Muthupandal when he started walking towards the temple.Shiva also ordered Nandhi to step aside so that Shiva can see Sambandar easily and viceversa.My father asked me name other temples were Nandhi does not look towards Shiva and I answered immediately.Thirupungur,Thirupoonduruthi and now Patteswaram.I had seen all 3, courtesy my Father and Shiva.We had a nice darshan of Dhennupuriswarar and I was thinking why this name is called Patteswaram.Another legend starts now.Parashakthi visited this calm place and did meditation here.She was helped by a small cow called Patti.Shiva appeared before Parashakthi and granted her wish.The cute little cow made a small lingam and started worshiping Shiva.Shiva thrilled by Patti's love and affection appeared in front of him and blessed him.Hence the name Patteswaram.
One will come across two goddesses here Gnanambikai and Vishnu durgai.Vishnu durgai is famous here and most of the devotees come to worship this Devi as she is supposed to shower blessings and grant their wishes.
The Durga here is very soft in look and grace (Shanta Swarupi). Sitting on her vehicle Lion, placing the feet on the head of Demon Mahishasura, the Goddess appears in a Tribanga stature, eight hands, three eyes and jewels in the ears. Generally, the Lion carrying Kali would be looking on the right side. But the Shanta Swarupi Durga’s Lion here faces the left side. In her hands, the mother holds, conch, wheel, bow, arrow, sword, shield and a parrot.
Chozhas before going to war or before taking an important decision worship Vishnu durgai.Even Ramar worshiped durgai and embarked on the war against Ravana.
Another importance of this place is Viswamtirar was conferred Brahmarishi by Vasistar at this holy place.After Patteswaram our next stop was next street,Sakthimutham.
Sakthimutham:
This is a romantic place.When I was searching the legend of this temple I understood an important fact that love and romance transcends even to the almighty. Lord here is called as Sivakozhunthewarar and when you find the reason for this a wry smile automatically comes.Parvathi was worshiping Shiva at this place and Shiva manifested himself as columns of fire called as Jyotiswaroopam.Interestingly Lakshmi was standing in one leg and was doing penance and when she saw the column of fire she hugged Shiva with the other leg and kissed him.Hence the name Sakthi mutham and the Shiva is called as Shivakozhuntheswarar.
There is a nice Vinayaga by name Vallabha Vinayagar and this place is significant for unmarried people.Thirunavukarasar had sung hymns praising god here and he was instructed by Shiva to visit Nallur.
When I saw my father explaining to my mother about the legend I did see sparkles of romance in my father's eyes.
Nathan Perumal temple:
Exactly 4 kms drive from here will take you to Nadhan Perumal temple. When we went it was around 4.30 pm and school children were cycling happily towards their respective homes.
A small road ends at this nice temple and there was no one except Perumal,Aiyengar and ourselves.
This place is called as Nandhipuravinnagaram.Nandhi is usually associated with Shiva,why this association with Perumal was the immediate curiuosity?Iyengar had all the answers.Nandhi wanted to see Perumal and visited Vinnagaram,rather heaven.He was stopped at the entrance by Dwaraplakars.Nandhi tried to force himself and Dwaraplakar cursed him.To absolve his sin Shiva instructed him to go to Shenbagaaranyam and worship Perumal.Nandhi absolved his sin by doing the same.Our next doubt is what is this Shenbagaranyam.This place was previously called as Shenbagararanyam as it was full of Shenbaga flowers.Now it is called as Nandhipuravinnagaram or Nadhan koil.
Another striking feature of this temple is Perumal is facing west. There are two stories for this and both are interesting to read.Sibi chakravarthy was a righteous king. Darmaraja and Indran decided to test his righteousness.Indran converted himself into a pigeon and the pigeon was chased by Darmaraja who was in the form of eagle.Pigeon sought Sibi's help for its protection and Sibi accepted.The eagle said it was hungry and it is its right to eat the pigeon.Sibi was in a dilemma now as he had to protect the pigeon and he also had to satisfy the wish of the eagle.Sibi offered his own flesh to satisfy eagle's hunger.Darmaraja and Indran were pleased at Sibi's honesty and blessed him.To witness this event Perumal had changed his position towards west.The other story is now Vishnu's romance.Lakshmi and Vishnu had a small fight and both of them got separated.Lakshmi came to this place and did penance worshiping Vishnu.Vishnu was looking towards left and now he had to turn to his right or west to pacify Lakshmi and take her back.
So this place is supposed to resolve marital discord.
This temple is one of the 108 divyadesams and the temple resembles Puri Jaganathaa temple.It was built by Nandhivarmachozhan.Mollavar is in sitting posture and is called as Srinivasan and whenever I see Srinivasan positive energy invariably surrounds and enters me.
Keezhapazhyarai:
One km drive from Nathan temple brings you to this place.This place is ensconced in history. The very word Pazhyarai brings back the memories of Ponniyun selvan, Kalki and that princess Kundavai.When I had mapped this place and told my parents that we will be visiting Pazhayarai my father was very happy. He was reading Balakumaran's Udayar where this place is center of attraction..I was trying to get info about this place and I'm just writing what was gathered.Pazhayarai was initially an important place during Pallava period.It was subsequently conquered by Chozas and Vijayalaya chozhan had built a palace here. Nandhivarma pallavan 3 again conquered this town only to lose again to Chozhas. Kundavai, the great princess influenced many of Chozha kings decisions lived here. Rajarajan,Rajendran lived here and Rajarajan's son made this place his capital.Uthamachozhan who was fond of building temples built many temples around this place.
In fact this place contains 4 thallis where Chozhas had stationed their warriors.
Pazhyarai temple was probabaly built both by Pallavas and subsequently renovated by Chozhas.
This place of great culture and heritage was demolished by Sundara pandiyan.The Chozha palace is not present now and the temple is in a dilapidated state and is being renovated.
This place has hence seen Pallavas,Chozhas and then Pandiyas.All three great kings of our Tamil culture have walked here.When I strolled with my parents I did pinch myself.
The temple was closed and it is closed most of the time.An old lady was taking bath in a pipe outside and she told me "thambi antha vitula savi iruku vangi paru".I looked the other side of the road an elderly helpful man shouted and asked a person to open the temple for us.The entrance of the temple looks similar to Thiruvellarai and Thirupanjali temple and I presume is of Pallava architecture. The temple is Madakoil and probably built by Kochenguto chozhan.The Somanathar is installed in a chariot based structure(Karakoil) and it has beautiful sculptures.We spent almost half an hour inside the small temple which is in a dilapidated state.A chozha pride probably a symbol of tamil culture is being renovated now.When I came out of the temple I was thinking about Jatavarman Sundarapandian,who had destroyed this place and palace.He must have had some justification.The fall of Pazhayarai marked the fall of Chozha dynasty.
Haridwaramangalam:
From, Pazyarai one has take a right and drive through a small straight road.The road is in a drivable condition and after a travel of 5 kms one has to cross a small bridge and turn to the right.3 kms later a left cut marked by an arch will be present.One has to drive for around 10 Kms to reach this place called Haridwaramangalam.The place was very calm and had a beautiful pond in front of it.The temple has two entrances and there was no aiyer when we went to the temple.We were there at around 6pm.
This place answers two questions.Why Brahma has no separate shrine and Why Thazhampoo does not take part in the decoration or in the rituals done for god?
Brahma and Vishnu had a ego clash to establish their superiority.If Brahma was able to see or touch the head of Siva he wins and if Vishnu is able to see the feet of Siva, Vishnu wins.
Brahma with help of swan went upwards to see Shiva's head but was unable to do so.At that time Thazampoo was falling down which was adorned by Shiva.Brahma asked thazampoo to tell Shiva that he saw the head of Shiva and the flower accepted.Meanwhile Vishnu made a pit in the ground and went down to see the feet of Shiva.He was unable to reach and he came back accepting his defeat.When Brahma said he had seen Shiva's head Shiva admonished Brahma and the flower for faking a story.He cursed Brahma not to have a shrine in the world and also made sure Thazhampoo did not take part in any ritual done to Hindu Gods.
The pit dug by Vishnu is still present here.Hence the name Hari-Vishnu,Dwara-Pit,Mangalam.
This temple is one of the Pancha aranya sthalams,meaning Shiva temples present in five different forests.
The Shiva here is called as Pathalaeshwarar.
Avalivanallur:
3 kms from this place is another Shiva temple, a Padal petra sthalam called Avalivanallur.This is also a Pancha aranya sthalam.The forest here is Pathiri vanam - Trumpet flowers.
Shiva here is called as Sakshi nathar and the place is Avalivanallur.Both put together forms the legend of this place.
A Shiva devotee after his Kasi trip came back to his village.He saw two women one in the bed, sick due to chicken pox and the other one nursing her.He thought the person who was sitting as his wife who actually was his wife's sister.The Shiva devotee went to the pond to take bath and had the intention to have conjugal ties with his wife after bath..Shiva appeared in front of him and informed him the truth.As god himself came as witness this place is called as Sakshianathar and the place is called as Aval ival alla nallur.(She is not the one you thought).
Avoor:
From this place Avoor is exactly9 kms.Shiva here is called as Paspatheswarar because Pasu- Cow- Kamadhenu worshiped Shiva here.
This place is also special because there are two goddesses for Shiva here.Pankajavallai and Mankalmibigai are the two goddesses here and Mankalimbigai idol was found in the pond adjacent to the temple.
Kalabhairavar is famous because he has 5 different presentations beautifully depicted on the wall.Traditional Bhairava Temple is in Thiruvisalur and Ammachatiram near Kumbakonam. Pancha(5)Bhairava Temple is in Avoor near Kumbakonam and in the Sattanathar Temple, Sirkazhi.
Avoor Kizhar and Moolankizhar are 2 sanga kala(old tamil period) poets born from this place.Perunthalai Sathanar was also born at this place.
Vayu(air)had a fight with Adhiseshan(snake god)and he came with two small hill from Kailash which fell at Nallur and Avoor.
This is also a Madakoil.
When we wound up seeing the temple we were exhausted physically.We drove back to Hotel Rayas and had great food.We dozed of with a spiritual feel.
Nallur:
Next day we had a nice Kumbakonam degree coffee and started towards Nallur.We hit the Tanjore road and after around 10kms there is a railway crossing on the left side.One has to take that left and go towards Nallur.Another left cut will take us to this unbelievable,but deserted temple.
When we entered the temple there were no one except a handicapped person who guided us upstairs.It is also a Mada koil and my parents had the energy and will to climb up around 20steps.
Shiva here is called as Panchavarneswarar.
The legend of the temple is beautifully depicted on the walls of the temple.Shivalingam transforms itself into 5 different colours over a period of 24 hours. Copper, pink, golden, emerald green and one that could not be named or recognized are the 5 different colours.We saw Him in copper colour.
Usually in Shiva temple there is no Pada darisanam(Getting blessings from the feet of god) which is quite common in Vishnu temples.But in this temple this darshan is practiced as in Vaishnava style as Thirunavukarasar was given pada(foot)darshan at this holy place.
Another legend associated with this temple is with Kundhi devi. Kundhidevi had 5 children courtesy 5 husbands.Because of this she had a dosha??.Her rectification was to bathe in seven oceans.She was unable to do this and asked Naradha's help.Naradha filled up the pond at Nallur with water brought from seven oceans.She took bath in the pond and got detoxified.
When you see this piece of painting,some background for it or some story should be there.Another story and another game by our great Shiva.Amarneethinayanar was born at Nallur and he is a great Shiva devotee with unflinching loyalty.Once he had a guest, a Saivite at home.He wanted to have food and nayanar welcomed him.The saivite had two dhoti's.He gave one to the Nayanar and asked him to keep it safe which he will use after taking bath.After taking bath he came to the house and asked for the cloth.Nayanar was bemused as he could not find the cloth.He gave him a duplicate but the Saivite did not accept.He told him that he can use a weighing machine which will yield a cloth equivalent to his garment weight.He kept the drenched garment on one side and asked Nayanar to keep the cloth in the opposite side.Nayanar kept the duplicate garment on the other side and it did not measure up to the weight of Saivite's garment.The Saivite told him he can keep even the utensils or ornaments he had.Nothing measured to the weight of the Saivite's garment.Finally Amarneethi nayanar and his entire family sat on one side.
Saivite was Shiva and after all Shiva had just started his game.He showed himelf and told Amarneethi nayanar, "your services are now required at Kailash,your entire family come with me".
The family of Amarneethi nayanar as statues are seen in the temple.
There is a nice Kalliamman also in the temple.
Thirupalathurai:
Retrace your path and hit the Tanjore road again.7 kms drive will bring you to this temple.
As soon as you enter the temple you will see this.
This is a Granary (storehouse of paddy) which measures 86 feet (26 m) in width and has a height of 36 feet (11 m) with a capacity of 3,000 kalam. The Nayaks constructed it between 1600–1634 AD . The State Archaeological Department has declared it as a monument.
The temple has a short legend only.
Tharuka a great sage became angry against Shiva and sent a tiger to attack him.Shiva tore the tiger and skinned out the tiger and used it as his garment.This has been sung by Appar.
The temple was built initially by Chozhas and subsequently renovated by Nayakars.
500 metres from this place on the left side of the road there is a temple called 108 Sivalayam.There are 108 Shivalingams placed in rows a awe inspiring sight.These lingams here was supposed to be installed by Ramar himself to clear the sin he had acquired after killing Ravana who is a Shiva devotee.Don't forget to see another huge lingam present adjacent to the temple which is supposedly installed by Hanuman.
One who worships at this temple will be absolved of all sins.
Thirukarukavur:
This temple is just 8kms from Papanasam.An enitre web page is devoted for this temple.
garbaratchambigaitemple.org/howtoreach.php
I have nothing to add.
ChakkaraVaagaeswarar-Iyampettai:
The temple was closed by the time we reached and it was just 10.30 am.
Sivachariar's number is written on the outside wall.I called him but he was unable to come.
The most striking aspect of the temple is its situated in a posh Muslim locality.
Think of a Shiva temple surrounded by Muslim brethrens and mosques.
That is our culture,we should be proud.
The legend of the temple is also a one liner - Vishnu got his Chakram-Discus,from Shiva and hence Shiva here is called as Chakkaravageshwarar.
Thittai :
Our next stop was Pasupathikoil which was locked as well.Once again we hit the Tanjore road.
A few kms later a left cut will take us to this temple.8km drive from this point will take up to this holy shrine.
A shrine gains importance because of the God or the presiding deity.But this place itself is very important and a mere visit to this place even without visiting the shrine is considered holy.There are two thittais (meaning a elevated place).One is Seerkazhi and the other is Thittai.Seerkazhi is called as vada(north)Thittai while this place is called as then kudi(south)thittai.Once this place was devastated by flood and God created an elevated place where people could gather and be safe.Hence this place attained this name.
Thirugnanasambandar calls the God here as Pasupathi nathar,meaning "Athmanathan".Pasu means not cow but "Athma - Soul".At this place one can understand one's self and hence the name Athmanathan.
Another interesting aspect of this temple is Dakshinamurthy has a separate shrine and hence this temple is also a Guru sthalam.Students throng for Guru's(Dakshinamurthy - Jupiter)blessings for examination purposes.The temple is frequented by lot of people.
Over the top of the lingam every 24 minutes a drop of water falls through a small hole found between two stones.These 2 stones are called Suryaganthakal and Chandraganthakal,meaning magnetic stones of sun and moon.They absorb water from atmosphere and the absorbed water is transformed into a droplet which falls on the lingam.Ask the priest to show the hole.
The temple is beautiful and well maintained and don't forget to climb up the temple from the outer pragaram on the left side.The view from the top is magnificent.It was hot as well as breezy on top and I did feel close to the god.
Thittai is divine.
All these temples are open from 7am till 12.30 pm and from 4-8pm,except Iyyampettai and Pasupathi koil which should be seen before 10 am or after 5 pm
It was indeed a great spiritual jouney.I was happy on two counts.First for seeing these temples which are not just god residing places.They depict tamil culture and architecture.Chozhas and Pallavars have played great service in building the temples which had multiple utilities,a safe place during floods,a place of worship and during war people used to go to the temples for safety.
My parents with me and being a driver as well as guide for them was like doing service for God.
A double Dhamaka.
I plan to visit all the temples in and around Kumbakonam in the near future and if God permits will pen down as well.
Its my dream to visit all if not most of the temples in and around Kumbakonam,write a blog about it which will be useful for people who want to visit temples around Kumbakonam.Kumbakonam is not a town and it is not a city as well.Its somewhere in between.The place is well maintained,clean and Tamil culture is vibrant and written all over Kumbakonam..Every street ends or begins with a temple and most of the roads lead to the Maha maham lake.
In this first blog I would like to write about few temples around Kumbakonam which are present in Kumbakonam to Tanjore route.After visiting Thirunallar along with my parents we reached Kumbakonam at around 1.30 pm and we relaxed with a sumptuous lunch at a hotel called Rayas. The hotel was great and had great room service.At around 3.30 pm we started towards a place called Patteswaram.
Patteswaram:
From Kumbonam take the Tanjore route.After a 3 km travel take a left cut and few meters later a right cut and then a straight road.This road will pass through Darasuram and another 3 kms drive will bring us to this nice temple.
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| My parents standing between two beautifully carved out Lions |
The temple was not crowded and it was not haunted as well.After entering the huge Raja gopuram one has to walk through another 50-70 meters to see the glimpse of Shiva.The most striking aspect of this sacred place and also the most unique feature is about Nandhikeswarar.He is not sitting straight towards shiva .He has stepped aside so that Shiva is visible. There must be a reason and the legends of this temple begins here.Thirugnanasambandar visited this place in a hot summer with his entourage.To surprise and make Sambandar comfortable lord himself made Muthupandal when he started walking towards the temple.Shiva also ordered Nandhi to step aside so that Shiva can see Sambandar easily and viceversa.My father asked me name other temples were Nandhi does not look towards Shiva and I answered immediately.Thirupungur,Thirupoonduruthi and now Patteswaram.I had seen all 3, courtesy my Father and Shiva.We had a nice darshan of Dhennupuriswarar and I was thinking why this name is called Patteswaram.Another legend starts now.Parashakthi visited this calm place and did meditation here.She was helped by a small cow called Patti.Shiva appeared before Parashakthi and granted her wish.The cute little cow made a small lingam and started worshiping Shiva.Shiva thrilled by Patti's love and affection appeared in front of him and blessed him.Hence the name Patteswaram.
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| Nandhikeshwarar not looking directly |
One will come across two goddesses here Gnanambikai and Vishnu durgai.Vishnu durgai is famous here and most of the devotees come to worship this Devi as she is supposed to shower blessings and grant their wishes.
The Durga here is very soft in look and grace (Shanta Swarupi). Sitting on her vehicle Lion, placing the feet on the head of Demon Mahishasura, the Goddess appears in a Tribanga stature, eight hands, three eyes and jewels in the ears. Generally, the Lion carrying Kali would be looking on the right side. But the Shanta Swarupi Durga’s Lion here faces the left side. In her hands, the mother holds, conch, wheel, bow, arrow, sword, shield and a parrot.
Chozhas before going to war or before taking an important decision worship Vishnu durgai.Even Ramar worshiped durgai and embarked on the war against Ravana.
Another importance of this place is Viswamtirar was conferred Brahmarishi by Vasistar at this holy place.After Patteswaram our next stop was next street,Sakthimutham.
Sakthimutham:
This is a romantic place.When I was searching the legend of this temple I understood an important fact that love and romance transcends even to the almighty. Lord here is called as Sivakozhunthewarar and when you find the reason for this a wry smile automatically comes.Parvathi was worshiping Shiva at this place and Shiva manifested himself as columns of fire called as Jyotiswaroopam.Interestingly Lakshmi was standing in one leg and was doing penance and when she saw the column of fire she hugged Shiva with the other leg and kissed him.Hence the name Sakthi mutham and the Shiva is called as Shivakozhuntheswarar.
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| Parvathi embracing Shiva |
There is a nice Vinayaga by name Vallabha Vinayagar and this place is significant for unmarried people.Thirunavukarasar had sung hymns praising god here and he was instructed by Shiva to visit Nallur.
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| Rajagopuram of Sakthimutham |
When I saw my father explaining to my mother about the legend I did see sparkles of romance in my father's eyes.
Nathan Perumal temple:
Exactly 4 kms drive from here will take you to Nadhan Perumal temple. When we went it was around 4.30 pm and school children were cycling happily towards their respective homes.
A small road ends at this nice temple and there was no one except Perumal,Aiyengar and ourselves.
This place is called as Nandhipuravinnagaram.Nandhi is usually associated with Shiva,why this association with Perumal was the immediate curiuosity?Iyengar had all the answers.Nandhi wanted to see Perumal and visited Vinnagaram,rather heaven.He was stopped at the entrance by Dwaraplakars.Nandhi tried to force himself and Dwaraplakar cursed him.To absolve his sin Shiva instructed him to go to Shenbagaaranyam and worship Perumal.Nandhi absolved his sin by doing the same.Our next doubt is what is this Shenbagaranyam.This place was previously called as Shenbagararanyam as it was full of Shenbaga flowers.Now it is called as Nandhipuravinnagaram or Nadhan koil.
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| Nathan perumal Temple |
Another striking feature of this temple is Perumal is facing west. There are two stories for this and both are interesting to read.Sibi chakravarthy was a righteous king. Darmaraja and Indran decided to test his righteousness.Indran converted himself into a pigeon and the pigeon was chased by Darmaraja who was in the form of eagle.Pigeon sought Sibi's help for its protection and Sibi accepted.The eagle said it was hungry and it is its right to eat the pigeon.Sibi was in a dilemma now as he had to protect the pigeon and he also had to satisfy the wish of the eagle.Sibi offered his own flesh to satisfy eagle's hunger.Darmaraja and Indran were pleased at Sibi's honesty and blessed him.To witness this event Perumal had changed his position towards west.The other story is now Vishnu's romance.Lakshmi and Vishnu had a small fight and both of them got separated.Lakshmi came to this place and did penance worshiping Vishnu.Vishnu was looking towards left and now he had to turn to his right or west to pacify Lakshmi and take her back.
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| Three of us infront of the temple |
So this place is supposed to resolve marital discord.
This temple is one of the 108 divyadesams and the temple resembles Puri Jaganathaa temple.It was built by Nandhivarmachozhan.Mollavar is in sitting posture and is called as Srinivasan and whenever I see Srinivasan positive energy invariably surrounds and enters me.
Keezhapazhyarai:
One km drive from Nathan temple brings you to this place.This place is ensconced in history. The very word Pazhyarai brings back the memories of Ponniyun selvan, Kalki and that princess Kundavai.When I had mapped this place and told my parents that we will be visiting Pazhayarai my father was very happy. He was reading Balakumaran's Udayar where this place is center of attraction..I was trying to get info about this place and I'm just writing what was gathered.Pazhayarai was initially an important place during Pallava period.It was subsequently conquered by Chozas and Vijayalaya chozhan had built a palace here. Nandhivarma pallavan 3 again conquered this town only to lose again to Chozhas. Kundavai, the great princess influenced many of Chozha kings decisions lived here. Rajarajan,Rajendran lived here and Rajarajan's son made this place his capital.Uthamachozhan who was fond of building temples built many temples around this place.
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| Desolate, but pazhayarai is an architectural wonder |
In fact this place contains 4 thallis where Chozhas had stationed their warriors.
Pazhyarai temple was probabaly built both by Pallavas and subsequently renovated by Chozhas.
This place of great culture and heritage was demolished by Sundara pandiyan.The Chozha palace is not present now and the temple is in a dilapidated state and is being renovated.
This place has hence seen Pallavas,Chozhas and then Pandiyas.All three great kings of our Tamil culture have walked here.When I strolled with my parents I did pinch myself.
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| This temple is a mixture of Pallava and Chozha architecture |
The temple was closed and it is closed most of the time.An old lady was taking bath in a pipe outside and she told me "thambi antha vitula savi iruku vangi paru".I looked the other side of the road an elderly helpful man shouted and asked a person to open the temple for us.The entrance of the temple looks similar to Thiruvellarai and Thirupanjali temple and I presume is of Pallava architecture. The temple is Madakoil and probably built by Kochenguto chozhan.The Somanathar is installed in a chariot based structure(Karakoil) and it has beautiful sculptures.We spent almost half an hour inside the small temple which is in a dilapidated state.A chozha pride probably a symbol of tamil culture is being renovated now.When I came out of the temple I was thinking about Jatavarman Sundarapandian,who had destroyed this place and palace.He must have had some justification.The fall of Pazhayarai marked the fall of Chozha dynasty.
Haridwaramangalam:
From, Pazyarai one has take a right and drive through a small straight road.The road is in a drivable condition and after a travel of 5 kms one has to cross a small bridge and turn to the right.3 kms later a left cut marked by an arch will be present.One has to drive for around 10 Kms to reach this place called Haridwaramangalam.The place was very calm and had a beautiful pond in front of it.The temple has two entrances and there was no aiyer when we went to the temple.We were there at around 6pm.
This place answers two questions.Why Brahma has no separate shrine and Why Thazhampoo does not take part in the decoration or in the rituals done for god?
Brahma and Vishnu had a ego clash to establish their superiority.If Brahma was able to see or touch the head of Siva he wins and if Vishnu is able to see the feet of Siva, Vishnu wins.
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| Entrance of Haridwaramangalam |
Brahma with help of swan went upwards to see Shiva's head but was unable to do so.At that time Thazampoo was falling down which was adorned by Shiva.Brahma asked thazampoo to tell Shiva that he saw the head of Shiva and the flower accepted.Meanwhile Vishnu made a pit in the ground and went down to see the feet of Shiva.He was unable to reach and he came back accepting his defeat.When Brahma said he had seen Shiva's head Shiva admonished Brahma and the flower for faking a story.He cursed Brahma not to have a shrine in the world and also made sure Thazhampoo did not take part in any ritual done to Hindu Gods.
The pit dug by Vishnu is still present here.Hence the name Hari-Vishnu,Dwara-Pit,Mangalam.
This temple is one of the Pancha aranya sthalams,meaning Shiva temples present in five different forests.
The Shiva here is called as Pathalaeshwarar.
Avalivanallur:
3 kms from this place is another Shiva temple, a Padal petra sthalam called Avalivanallur.This is also a Pancha aranya sthalam.The forest here is Pathiri vanam - Trumpet flowers.
Shiva here is called as Sakshi nathar and the place is Avalivanallur.Both put together forms the legend of this place.
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| Father and mother resting at Avalivanallur temple |
Avoor:
From this place Avoor is exactly9 kms.Shiva here is called as Paspatheswarar because Pasu- Cow- Kamadhenu worshiped Shiva here.
This place is also special because there are two goddesses for Shiva here.Pankajavallai and Mankalmibigai are the two goddesses here and Mankalimbigai idol was found in the pond adjacent to the temple.
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| Panchabairavar |
Kalabhairavar is famous because he has 5 different presentations beautifully depicted on the wall.Traditional Bhairava Temple is in Thiruvisalur and Ammachatiram near Kumbakonam. Pancha(5)Bhairava Temple is in Avoor near Kumbakonam and in the Sattanathar Temple, Sirkazhi.
Avoor Kizhar and Moolankizhar are 2 sanga kala(old tamil period) poets born from this place.Perunthalai Sathanar was also born at this place.
Vayu(air)had a fight with Adhiseshan(snake god)and he came with two small hill from Kailash which fell at Nallur and Avoor.
This is also a Madakoil.
When we wound up seeing the temple we were exhausted physically.We drove back to Hotel Rayas and had great food.We dozed of with a spiritual feel.
Nallur:
Next day we had a nice Kumbakonam degree coffee and started towards Nallur.We hit the Tanjore road and after around 10kms there is a railway crossing on the left side.One has to take that left and go towards Nallur.Another left cut will take us to this unbelievable,but deserted temple.
When we entered the temple there were no one except a handicapped person who guided us upstairs.It is also a Mada koil and my parents had the energy and will to climb up around 20steps.
Shiva here is called as Panchavarneswarar.
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| Nicely chiseled out Vinayaga next to my mother |
The legend of the temple is beautifully depicted on the walls of the temple.Shivalingam transforms itself into 5 different colours over a period of 24 hours. Copper, pink, golden, emerald green and one that could not be named or recognized are the 5 different colours.We saw Him in copper colour.
Usually in Shiva temple there is no Pada darisanam(Getting blessings from the feet of god) which is quite common in Vishnu temples.But in this temple this darshan is practiced as in Vaishnava style as Thirunavukarasar was given pada(foot)darshan at this holy place.
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| Nice view from the temple |
Another legend associated with this temple is with Kundhi devi. Kundhidevi had 5 children courtesy 5 husbands.Because of this she had a dosha??.Her rectification was to bathe in seven oceans.She was unable to do this and asked Naradha's help.Naradha filled up the pond at Nallur with water brought from seven oceans.She took bath in the pond and got detoxified.
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| Amarneethi Nayanar and his family |
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| Read the story |
Saivite was Shiva and after all Shiva had just started his game.He showed himelf and told Amarneethi nayanar, "your services are now required at Kailash,your entire family come with me".
The family of Amarneethi nayanar as statues are seen in the temple.
There is a nice Kalliamman also in the temple.
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| Rajagopuram of Nallur temple |
Thirupalathurai:
Retrace your path and hit the Tanjore road again.7 kms drive will bring you to this temple.
As soon as you enter the temple you will see this.
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| Nayakars Granary |
This is a Granary (storehouse of paddy) which measures 86 feet (26 m) in width and has a height of 36 feet (11 m) with a capacity of 3,000 kalam. The Nayaks constructed it between 1600–1634 AD . The State Archaeological Department has declared it as a monument.
The temple has a short legend only.
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| Rajagopuram of Thirupalathurai Temple |
Tharuka a great sage became angry against Shiva and sent a tiger to attack him.Shiva tore the tiger and skinned out the tiger and used it as his garment.This has been sung by Appar.
The temple was built initially by Chozhas and subsequently renovated by Nayakars.
500 metres from this place on the left side of the road there is a temple called 108 Sivalayam.There are 108 Shivalingams placed in rows a awe inspiring sight.These lingams here was supposed to be installed by Ramar himself to clear the sin he had acquired after killing Ravana who is a Shiva devotee.Don't forget to see another huge lingam present adjacent to the temple which is supposedly installed by Hanuman.
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| 108 lingams in rows |
One who worships at this temple will be absolved of all sins.
Thirukarukavur:
This temple is just 8kms from Papanasam.An enitre web page is devoted for this temple.
garbaratchambigaitemple.org/howtoreach.php
I have nothing to add.
ChakkaraVaagaeswarar-Iyampettai:
The temple was closed by the time we reached and it was just 10.30 am.
Sivachariar's number is written on the outside wall.I called him but he was unable to come.
The most striking aspect of the temple is its situated in a posh Muslim locality.
Think of a Shiva temple surrounded by Muslim brethrens and mosques.
That is our culture,we should be proud.
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| No entry in front of Chakkaravageshwarar |
The legend of the temple is also a one liner - Vishnu got his Chakram-Discus,from Shiva and hence Shiva here is called as Chakkaravageshwarar.
Thittai :
Our next stop was Pasupathikoil which was locked as well.Once again we hit the Tanjore road.
A few kms later a left cut will take us to this temple.8km drive from this point will take up to this holy shrine.
A shrine gains importance because of the God or the presiding deity.But this place itself is very important and a mere visit to this place even without visiting the shrine is considered holy.There are two thittais (meaning a elevated place).One is Seerkazhi and the other is Thittai.Seerkazhi is called as vada(north)Thittai while this place is called as then kudi(south)thittai.Once this place was devastated by flood and God created an elevated place where people could gather and be safe.Hence this place attained this name.
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| From the top of the temple |
Another interesting aspect of this temple is Dakshinamurthy has a separate shrine and hence this temple is also a Guru sthalam.Students throng for Guru's(Dakshinamurthy - Jupiter)blessings for examination purposes.The temple is frequented by lot of people.
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| Rajagopuram of Thittai being renovated |
Over the top of the lingam every 24 minutes a drop of water falls through a small hole found between two stones.These 2 stones are called Suryaganthakal and Chandraganthakal,meaning magnetic stones of sun and moon.They absorb water from atmosphere and the absorbed water is transformed into a droplet which falls on the lingam.Ask the priest to show the hole.
The temple is beautiful and well maintained and don't forget to climb up the temple from the outer pragaram on the left side.The view from the top is magnificent.It was hot as well as breezy on top and I did feel close to the god.
Thittai is divine.
All these temples are open from 7am till 12.30 pm and from 4-8pm,except Iyyampettai and Pasupathi koil which should be seen before 10 am or after 5 pm
It was indeed a great spiritual jouney.I was happy on two counts.First for seeing these temples which are not just god residing places.They depict tamil culture and architecture.Chozhas and Pallavars have played great service in building the temples which had multiple utilities,a safe place during floods,a place of worship and during war people used to go to the temples for safety.
My parents with me and being a driver as well as guide for them was like doing service for God.
A double Dhamaka.
I plan to visit all the temples in and around Kumbakonam in the near future and if God permits will pen down as well.
