KODIKARAI,PONNIYUN SELVAN AND SIVA TEMPLES

ENTRANCE OF THE SANCTUARY

The word ‘Kodikkarai’ will bring nostalgic recollections of Poonguzhali if one is Ponniyin Selvan’s fan and a nice bird sanctuary if you are nature loving follower of the wild life.

While reading Ponniyin Selvan, one gets into the mix of happenings.  The Novel is an interesting mix of story-telling with fictional characters and true history.  Poonguzhali is a female who has two aspects.  She is brave to the extent she can ride a boat taking Arulmozhivarman @ Rajaraja Cholan and Vendhiyadevan to Sri Lanka at two separate instances.

The other virtue of Poonguzhali is her unflinching  love and loyalty to Arulmozhivarman @ Rajaraja Cholan.  If Poonguzhali is a true character, she is a women of brave stature.

Kodikkarai is called as “POINT CALIMERE” and it can be accessed from Vedaranyam.  There is a security check before we enter the desolate12 KMs stretch.  The stretch is very calm and on either side of the road we were encountered by monkeys as if Hanuman is welcoming us. 

WIND AND OURSELVES AT POINT CALIMERE

THE GIFT OF PARANTHAKA CHOZHAN DILAPIDATED LIGHT HOUSE

DUSTING OF

CURRENT LIGHT  HOUSE

FOLLOWING THE FOO STEPS OF KALKI,ARULMOZHIVARMAN,POONGUZHALI

Kodikkarai has an interesting connection to Ramayana as well.  From Kodikkarai,  Sri Lanka is accessible by a boat or ferry.  Ramar dropped the idea of invading Sri Lanka as accessibility to Kodikkarai will reach the back of the Srilankan king.  He chose sedhu to launch his attack against Ravana so that he can attack him eye to eye.Siva knew Ravana would take on rama anywhere because ravana was  a deep saivite.

There are couple of Guest houses at Kodikkarai.  One is maintained by the Forest Department which is under renovation and the other one is “V.M. Guest house”.  We chose V.M. Guest house and it was a decent accommodation at Kodikkarai.  Kodikkarai is actually a small village. The Sanctuary at Kodikkarai is open till 5.00 PM and it is a home for the endangered black Antelope.  The most interesting aspect of Kodikkarai is the remains of a Light House built by Paranthaka Cholan. Sea, floods and human beings  have destroyed the historical Light House.  I had the pleasure of touching the stone of the ruined light house.We were alone.  The ride to this monument itself is a great experience.  Deers with horns are seen everywhere. We also saw an occasional Peacock.  There were beautiful birds flocking the sea which could have been a treat for Bird watchers.  All I can decipher was the different kinds of birds with different colours with different shapes.  Paranthakacholan, Arulmozhivarman, Poonguzhali would have walked here. We also walked.    As we came out of the Sanctuary, my brother told that the Light House should be renovated and protected.  I did hear it but I felt the presence of Poonguzhali  at that place.

KODIKAZHAGAR TEMPLE

A 2 KM ride towards Vedaranyam brings us  to Kodikizhagar Temple.  This Temple is also a character in Ponniyin Selvan and frequented by Poonguzhali.  We reached the Temple at 5.00 PM and the place was very serene.  Sundarar had come to this Temple along with Seraman  Sundarar has sung ten songs about the Temple.  The Temple is very small but well maintained.  The Sthalavrutcham is ‘Vilvam’.  The peculiarity of this Temple is that the Navagrahas are in straight line. 

NAVAGRAHAS STANDING IN A STRAIGHT LINE

After getting Kodikkarai siva blessings, we went to Ramar Patham.  It is on the right side of the road.   A flight of steps takes us to this Ramar Patham.  It is maintained by Archaelogical Survey of India (ASI) but there were no personnel here when we were at that place. There was no one to guide us also.  Monkeys were around in numerous numbers and can easily attack if anyone is alone.  We were scared and we did not have any sticks to threaten the monkeys.

AGATHIAN PALLI:

AGHATHIAN TEMPLE GOPURAM

INSIDE THE TEMPLE

We started our journey towards Vedaranyam.   3 KMs further towards Vedaranyam is Agathian Palli.  The Temple is on the left side and there is a big  Arch which cannot be missed.  No one was there at the Temple except three of us. The fourth person was Siva.  The Swayambulingam[SELF MANIFESTED] was very tall and was emanating spirituality.  We connected to Siva immediately.  My brother and myself sat in front of the omnipotent and paid obeisance with Sivapuranam.  The myth or legend behind this Temple is when Siva had married at Kailash, great sages and all his followers came to Kailash.  The earth tilted towards Kailash.  To counter this effect, Siva sent Agathiar down to South. Agathiar came to Kodikkarai but he did not miss the marriage.Siva and Parvathi gave him, their Darshan at Agathian Palli.  On the  right side there is Amman(female goddess).  She has a very calmly presence and hence called as  Amena Poonguzhali .  If Siva is knowledge like our Father, Parvathi is for love and compassion.  In this materialistic world, for people like us siva is our Father, Parvathi is our Amma. That is the essence of Agathian Palli.  This Temple is called as “Agathiar koil” locally. 

AGATHIARS SEPARATE SHRINE

VEDARANYAM:

THE SACRED DANCE OF THYAGARAJA

Another 10 minutes’ ride, we were at Vedaranyam.  I had been to Vedaranyam before but I was nascent Saivite.    After climbing 2 to 3 steps as Saivite, I wished to visit this place again with my brother and Siva’s blessings.  The Temple is quite big and behind the Sivalingam, we saw Siva and Parvathi standing in" Kalyana Kolam"(Marraige posture).  This Kalyana Kolam is seen in 3 Temples viz., Vedaranyam, Idumbavanam and Thirumaraikadu.  This Temple was built by 4 Vedas when they were in human form viz., Rig, Yajur, Sama and Atharvana viz., four Vedas.  Four Vedas came down to Vedaranyam, built this Temple and worshipped Sivalingam. When Kaliyugam came,the 4 Vedas left the earth after closing the main gate of the Temple.  Since this Temple was worshipped and built by the Vedas, this Temple is called as “Vedaranyam”.  The main door of the Temple was closed till 1200 years before, before Sambandar and Thirunavukkarasar came here.  Seeing the plight of the people to visit the Temple on the side entrance, Thirunavukkarasar sang ten songs pleading Lord Siva to open the door of the main gate.  Miracle happened.  The door,automatically opened.  To close the opened door, Thirugnanasambandar had to sing only one song. On the right side of Siva is Thiyagaraja.  This Temple is also one of the Saptha (7) Vidanga Sthalangal.  Saptha means ‘Seven’ (7).  Vidanga means self-manifested Maragathalingam.  We were lucky to see the Abishegam of this small Greenish Maragathalingam.  I do not know whether I can use the term “Cute” for this small Lingam as Lingam and Siva are always beautiful, cute and pure.  It was enthralling to witness Abishegam of Maragathalingam.

KARAPAGANATHARKULAM

PRISTINE CLEAN INSIDE

THE SACRED POND

Vedaranyam is an important Temple for Saivite. A must visit.  My brother another father to me brought us good food and we started back to Kodikkarai and slept at the Guest House.

Karpaganatharkulam:

          Vanthiya thevan was chasing me when the alarm interrupted my sleep.  It was 5.00 AM and all of us started to get ready for today’s schedule.  We boarded the Duster by 6.00 AM and started towards Karpaganatharkulam.  We travelled back to Vedaranyam and further  one has to take a left turn and hit the Thiruthuraipoondi Highway.  25 KMs’ drive brought us to this place.  A left cut and further down by a KM and a half brought us to this quiet village.  People had just got up for their morning teas and gossips.They were happy to guide us to the Temple.  The Temple was closed but after seeing us the Gate Keeper of the Temple came and opened it.  The Temple had nice marble tiles and was very neat.  Siva was transcending again.  This place is called as "Kadimanam" which means the sand is very hard.  Child prodigy Sambandar had come to this place and had sung 11 songs praising Lord Siva.  The Lingam is hexagonal in shape which is a Divine peculiarity.  Ramar had visited the Temple to get the blessings of Siva before going to Sedhu(rameshwaram).  The Vinayagar here is called as ‘Mangani Vinayagar”. 

Idumbavanam:

From Karpaganatharkulam, Idumbavanam is just 2 KMs away.  Idumbavanam is a bigger Temple and there were people inside as well as outside the Temple.  Three striking things one should not miss at Idumbavanam is “Vellai Vinayagar” (White Vinayagar), Siva and Parvathi behind Sivalingam in Kalyana Kolam and beautiful paintings which are crying for maintainenece. Vinayagar here is made of Sea bubbles and hence he is called as "Vellai Vinayagar".  He is worshipped here with milk and panneer.  The place is also called ‘Pitru Mukthi Sthalam’ which means that if we pray here for our forefathers, their sons will be absolved and they will not be born again.  The place is called as Idumbavanam because Idumban, a rogue King worshipped at this place to convert himself to a nice person.  Siva transformed him into a beautiful man and also gave him good character.  This is the beauty of Siva.  This Temple has excellent paintings on the walls.  My brother is a Civil Engineer,and he was talking about the intricacies and difficulties in making them.Me being a novice in this was able to understand the importance of this aesthetic paintings. The paintingsshould be protected and this art would be a great research interest for an Archaeologist.  After meditating here for some time, we started our journey towards the next Temple Kovilur. 

VELLAI(WHITE)VINAYAGAR

BEAUTIFUL PAINTINGS REQUIRING ATTENTION

KOVILUR:

A BOARD EXPLAINING THE IMPORTANCE OF THE TEMPLE

KODIMARAM AND GOPURAM OF THE TEMPLE

AMMAN(FEMALE GODDESS) AND MY BROTHER

To reach Kovilur from  Idumbavanam, we should drive towards Muthupet.  After a few KMs’ drive, we hit the Highway and just after entering Muthupet, there is a right cut which takes us to this Temple. The Temple has a huge Arch on the left side.  The arch cannot be missed.  A one KM drive  takes us to this Temple.  Sri Ramar, before starting his journey towards Sri Lanka, offered prayer to Siva here.  He also got expert advice from Siva and hence Siva here is called ‘Manthirapureeswarar”.  The Swayambulingam (self-made) here looks white and the reason being offered is few drops of Amirtham fell on the Sivalingam.  Hence it turned white. When  Yama   threw the death cord on Margandeya,he was saved by Siva but the cord had left scars on Margandeya.  These scars were cleaned when Markendaya  took bath at the pond adjoining this Temple.    Tirugnanasambandar has sung songs praying Siva at this Temple.  This place is also called as Thirusthalam.  Sun had just peeped out and taken full effect by now.  We were wiping out our sweat and boarded  the Duster. After taking our breakfast at a road side Motel, our next stop was Tirukalar.

THIRUKALAR:

MAJESTIC NANDHI

THIRUKALAR TEMPLE ENTRANCE

After travelling on the highway around 10 KMs, we had to take a left cut to reach Tirukalar.  Siva here is called as ‘Parijathavaneswarar’.  The Temple is big and it is surrounded by old houses viz., Agraharam.  Kalavi means dance.  Duruvasar wanted to see Bramma dance of Siva.  To fulfil his ambitions, he brought Parijatha flowers and made it as a Tree and installed a Sivalingam under the Tree and started worshipping Siva. The entire place was transformed into a Parijathavanam (Forest).  Siva fulfilled his wish by dancing in front of him.  Here Lord Subramanya is unique because he stands alone without his wives(happy days for muruga also).  By standing alone, he becomes a Guru (Teacher) to 60,000 Sages.  He utters the importance of Namachivaya manthiram.  Tirunavukkarasar and Tirugnanasambandar had visited this Temple. We felt rejuvenated at this Temple and there is an idol of Duruvasar worshipping Siva. 

THIRUKOTTUR:

Our next stop was Thirukottur.  The same road takes us to this small village.6 to 7 KMs ride enables us to reach this temple.  The Temple is inside the village with poor accessibility.  The Temple was closed at 10.30 AM itself. We prayed from outside and I have snaps of the Temple alone.  The Temple looks very old and it needs urgent renovation.  I presume it also requires a dutiful person to keep open the Temple till 12.00 noon. 

Thandalachery "Neer nerinathar" temple:

STONE ENGRAVING OF ARIVATANAYANAR

SIVACHARIAR DISCUSSING ABOUT KOCHENGOTUCHOZHAN

NANDHI WHICH WAS WORSHIPPED BY KOCHENGOTUCHOZHAN

ADHIGARANADHIESWARAR.

From Kovilur, we started our journey towards Tiruvarur.  A 10 KMs ride on the Highway and 8 KMs before Tiruvarur brings us to Neernerinathar Temple.  One has to take a left cut from the Highway to reach this Temple.  This place is important because it is here Siva saved the life of thayala  Nayanar and gave him salvation.  Thayala Nayanar was a wealthy man and he had a virtuous wife unlike the present generation where women and men are partners. He and his wife used to worship Siva with  special cooked rice,curry leaves and Mango pickle  daily.  Siva started to test the virtues of Nayanar.  He made them poor.  In spite of extreme poverty, Nayanar and his wife continued to worship siva with cooked rice and mango pudding.  Despite starvation, one day, instead of eating,  Nayanar and his wife made their cooked rice and mango pickle and walked towards Sivalingam.  Because of extreme fatigue, his wife fell down and spilled the food to the ground.  Nayanar also fell to the ground with food and he was in anguish that he was unable to feed God.   He took the long knife (Arival) and decided to cut his throat.  Just before he could cut his throat, a hand appeared from the ground and held the knife.  It is Siva who saved the Nayanar’s life and appeared along with his wife Parvathi.  This history is engraved in Stone form on the wall of the Temple.  This Temple also has a Sivalingam worshipped by Kochengutu cholan.  Adjacent to this Temple, the Sivacharyar’s house is present.  Around 12.00 noon he explained us the importance of this Temple and was very patient to answer our doubts and showed us the entire Temple.The temple does not have Kodimaram and Kochengotu chozhan was cured of  leprosy here.Another aspect of  this temple is Nataraja is adorned by river ganges is in the foot and it does not adorn his head.

Ponniyun selvan was a great inspiration to visit Kodikarai.The characters of the book  travel with us.My father and brother had great influence in making me read from childhood and it was an extreme pleasure to drive with my brother to Kodikarrai. At kodikarai everything was beautiful.The beach,the breeze,the temple,the sanctuary and the ride everything was picture perfect.Siva was also travelling with us and we reached home Parijatha smell of lord siva did not leave us.