Sivasthalangal in and around Nagapttinam

Nagapattinam is a quite town located in the scenic east coast road.It is 20 kms away from Karaikal and five kms from Nagoor. Before treading into the details of the Shiva temples let us briefly go back to trace the enchanting history of Nagapattinam.Origins of Nagapattinam can be traced as far as 3rd century BC. Ashoka viharam was supposedly built here by the great Ashoka of the Magadha dynasty.Nagapattinam derives its name from Nagar meaning native inhabitants of Srilanka who came and settled here.It was a important sea port for Cholas with two historically important temples.
Kayarohanswamy temple and Soundararaja Perumal temple glorifying Siva and Vishnu are the two important temples.Nagapattinam stands for unity in diversity as it represents Christianity by having Velankani and Muslims in the form of Nagoor.
It is  a citadel not only for its rich Tamil culture but also for having temples of great importance in all 4 religions.Budha viharam a form of Budhist monastry was also present here during Chola reign.
That is in a nut shell about Nega (Naga) pattinam.
Now we will go to the Shiva temples frequented by our beloved Nalvars.

Kayarohanaswamy temple:

A NICE VIEW OF THE TEMPLE

MUSUKUNDA CHAKRAVARTHY WITH INDRAN

THE ENTRANCE

Before going into the temple history let us know about about Athipatha Nayanmar. Athipathar is a fisher man and a staunch Saivite.
He goes for fishing daily and at the end of the day he throws the first fish back to sea as a token of gift to Shiva. Due to some unknown reasons fishermen are unable to net huge catch of fishes.Most of the day they come back empty handed.
Last ten days Athipathar could get one or two fishes only and as usual he throws the first fish or sometimes  the only fish back to the sea for Shiva.Because of this poverty strikes fisherman community and Athipathar is no exception.
One day Athipathar gets a gold fish and it happens to be the only catch.His comrades dissuaded him from  throwing the fish back to the sea but Athipathar threw the golden fish into the sea without even thinking or hearing the advise of other fishermen.
Shiva appeared before him and made him one of the Nayanmars.
Shiva does not stop here.He also gives salvation to Azhuguni Sithar whose Jeeva samadhi is in this temple. Azhuguni sidhar is a disciple of Gorakkar whose Samadhi is also at Nagapattinam.

Why the deity is called as Kayarohanar? Kayam means "body" Rohanam means "embracing" or "hugging".
Pundarika munivar ( sage) was given salvation by lord Shiva by embracing him with his body.Hence Kaya(body)Roganam(embrace).Why this is unique is the next question? Here importance is given to body.
 Breaking the rule of soul greater than body.Shiva can make soul greater than body or body greater than Shiva because he is Shiva.
The origin of word Nagai is not sure - Whether it is because of Negars from Srilanka are whether it is because of Serpent (in tamil Nagapambu )which worshiped her gave the name Nagapattinam, only Shiva can tell.
There is always a big crowd in front of Amman and when I probed for the reason I understood the Amman in one of the Sakthi Peedams and also one of the Atchi Amman's.
What is this Atchi Amman?
Parvathi alias Sakthi  at Nagaipattinam is considered sacred because she depicts one of the 5 stages of life in women.At Kashi she is a child-Visalakshi,at Kanchi she is young girl- Kamatchi,at Nagai she is at the pubertal stage- Neelayadashi,at Thiruvarur,she is a woman to get married and called Kamalambigai and at Madurai she is Meenakshi representing married women.
She is called Neelaya Dakshi because she has blue eyes.Hmm that was interesting. In front of Amman there is a Nandhi,what it is doing?. It looks both ways.Yes for sure.It is looking goddess as well as whats there on the left side. I enquired the Aiyer who said the nandhi has Erattai parvai(two looks)one towards Amman protecting her and the other one doing its duty looking at Shiva.
Next to Shiva there is another diety called Thiyagarajar sanathi and he is one among the Saptha vidanga murthy.Here he dances like a wave called Paravara tharanga natanam.The Vidangar is Sundara vidangar.

Vidanga means "Small lingam".The original Lingam is made of ruby and it has been stolen.A replica made of Gomedhagam is now present there.

A duplicate for Shiva.The person who stole did not understand Shiva is everywhere even inside him.

Sikkal:

FROM INSIDE

   

FROM INSIDE INTO THE CLOUDS

ADJACENT VISHNU TEMPLE

A LIST OF TEMPLES WHERE MURUGA AND HANUMAN COEXIST

One has to take the thiruvarur road and after a drive of 5 Kms to the left this temple is present.
Once again Murugan scores over Shiva here.At Nagapattinam it was goddess and now it is his son who is popular here.Shiva after all is omnipotent always gives space to every one.That is why he is supreme.
I keep learning from him.As soon as we go near the temple the Rajagopuram stands at 70 feet height which makes remarkable viewing.
There are two temples adjacent to each other.One is a Vishnu temple and a Shiva temple next to it.Eyebrows go up automatically and there is a reason for it.
Vashista munivar(sage)was doing his daily penance to the Shivalingam with butter(vennai).Vishnu in the guise of a small child took away the butter and started running.Sage Vashista came behind him and asked for butter.Vishnu appeared before him and showed the butter held between his fingers.Hence Perumal here is called Vennai Perumal.Vishnu before defeating Mahabali,took Shivas blessings at this place.
Why this place is called Sikkal?To know this first we should know about the Kamadhenu story.
Kamadhenu(divine cow)was very hungry as she was unable to get food to eat during a famine.She ate the flesh of a tiger and inherited the wrath of Shiva for this unholy behavior.She was transformed to a tiger and to regain her original form she came down to this place and took bath in the holy tank at this temple.She regained her original form and filled the entire tank with her milk.
Vashista munivar came here and took butter from the milk.Out of the butter he made a Linga and started worshiping it.As he decided to go from this place he wanted to take the lingam from this place.Lingam got stuck here and could not be removed.Since it got stuck here it got the name Sikkal(stuck). Sikkal story starts with Kamadhenu and ends with Vashista munivar.
Why murugan is famous here?.Murugan is called Singaravelar because he looks beautiful.This place is one of the most important abodes of Muruga.

Muruga got the Vel(lance)from Parvathi at this place.He subsequently used this Vel to kill Surapadman at Thiruchendur.After killing Suran, Muruga inherited Brahmahatti dosham as he had killed Asuran who is by birth a Brahmin and a ardent Saivite.He came back and took bath at the holy pond at Velur(next temple) to clear the Dosha.When he came out of the pond the radiance of lord Muruga emanated and he was looking very beautiful.Hence he was called Singaravelan.

Muruga is called Veiyarvai(sweat)Sindhum velar.Why? Skandha sasti is celebrated for 6 days at this place and Vel vangum vizha(Vel - lance,vangum-getting,vizha- festival) happens to fall on the fifth day.When the idol of Muruga is taken out on the fifth day to get the Vel from Parvathi the face of Muruga is full of sweat. Iyers keep wiping the sweat and throw it over the devotees.

Why on this particular day sweat comes from his face - no one knows the scientific reason.The reason given however is Murugan's fury against Suran on that particular day makes him sweat out of anger.Next day he vanquishes Suran at Thiruchendur. Parvathi is called Velnedunkanni as she has eyes like a Vel.
This magnificent temple was built by Kochengannan and it is a Mada kovil.
When we come out of the temple we get a sense of completeness.We had seen Shiva,Vishnu,Ganapathy,Murugan,Amman,Lakshmi,Anjaneyar.This infact is depicted on the wall of the temple.
Sikkal is a complete temple a must visit for Saivite as well as Vaishnavite.

Kilvelur temple:

GOPURA DARISNAM - UNDER RENOVATION

MADAKOVIL

A 5 km drive from this place towards Thiruvarur will bring us to Kilvelur.A left turn and few hundred meters drive and a right turn will bring us to this lovely temple.
This temple is also built by Kochengenan and its a Mada koil.We had already discussed about Mada koil in our previous blogs.
This place is called Velur because Muruga made a pond at this place using his Vel(lance).
When Muruga did penance here he was troubled by  bad elements and to protect  him from them Parvathi took the form of  Anjuvathathuamman(5 directions).The fifth direction being sky.
Amman is famous here and once again people throng here.
When Brahma lost his ability to create he came here and worshipped  Shiva  and got back his power.Hence Shiva is called as  Atchayalinga swamy.
Kuberan has a separate shrine here.
There is a sacred pond here where there is a belief if someone takes bath here they are relieved of skin diseases.

Thevur:

KALVAZHAI - BANANA TREE GROWING IN STONE

SIVA VISHNU DURGAI

From Kilvelur Temple one has to take a right turn and head straight towards Katchanam.5 kms drive will take you to this little unknown temple but with rich heritage and history.
This is a Gurusthlam(Jupiter).Dakshinamurthy is significant here because he is supposed to be in his oldest form here.He does not have the Muyalagan below his foot. Muyalagan is supposed to be the personification of ignorance.
Dakshinamurthy is a form of Shiva. As Dakshinamurthy, Shiva teaches  us to be as" You ARE".
The Tamil word Muyalagan means trying heart in English.Shiva as Dakshinamurthy says be silent and by being silent you will learn. Apart from Muyalagan Rishis also sit in front of young Shiva. For all their questions Shiva just gives a smile and nothing else.The Rishis understood the truth of silence.
At this place Indran did penance to clear the sin he incurred for killing Virudasuran .Hence Siva is called Devapuriswarar.

Another important aspect of this temple is Kal Vazhai(stone banana tree). One can see this astonishing feature where the banana tree grows on a rock and it is supposed to be over 1000 years old.

Durgaiamman here is called as Shiva Vishnu Durgai.
She has a sangu(conch) in one hand and a deer in another hand depicting both  forms of faith.
I came to this temple to see Shiva and when I came out of the temple I understood the confluence of two different faiths are the same as depicted by Shiva Vishnu Durgai.


To cap it all Dakshinamurthy's smile is still lingering,the transcending smile and the importance of silence.

KONGU NADU BASED SIVASTHALANGAL,PART 1

The word Kongu nadu reminds us about Erode and Coimbatore.Earlier it was called Konga Nadu which subsequently transformed to Kongu nadu. Konga means land of Gangas and it was ruled by Cheras. Some people equate Kongu to the nectar of the flowers.

There are totally seven padal petra sivasthalangal here and it is spread across 4 districts.Best is to stay at Erode and  all the places can be covered in a single hectic day.It is better to schedule the visit to these temples over a period of two days.

BHAVANI:

INSIDE SANGAMESWARAR TEMPLE-VERY CALM

 SANGAMAM -FULLY LITTERED

"Presumed innocent until proved guilty".This important sentence was phrased by Mr., William Garrow a distinguished barrister and judge of UK. Garrow's law is a book well written and well read where in the author talks about the ingenious ways in which Garrow tried to make changes in the draconian laws where guilty were invariably punished.

What is Garrow doing in Bhavani?. He had a son another William Garrow who had taken up an assignment with East India Company.He served as a district Collector of Salem and Coimbatore with great distinction.

He is a  disciple of Vedhanayagi at Bhavani and used to see the goddess only through the key hole as non Hindus were not allowed inside the sanctum.

One day when he was asleep in the bungalow he had a dream in which Vedanayagi asked him  to get out of the place at once.He ran out of the house at once and behind him the bungalow collapsed. He lived a wonderful life in India and had seven children.The details of this is mentioned in his father's book. Garrow gifted a cradle for the goddess as a mark of gratitude. This had happened in 1803.

Bhavani temple is frequented by thousands of visitors. Untimely death and for ablution of sins one  can take bath at the Mukkodal.What is this Mukkodal ? Mukkudal is confluence of 3 rivers.Bhavani,Cauvery and a unknown or unseen river Amirtham. It is srikingly similar to the Triveni sagamam in North India. North Indians might call this as poorman's Triveni sangamam and we might call Allahabad  similarly.However the important aspect is to take bath. I went with sufficient paraphernalia to take bath but after seeing the crowd and the cleanliness, I decided to wash my body with my mind and started walking inside the temple.I heard somebody shouting that if a dead body is immersed here the skull will not burst.No skull explodes!

Outside the temple people were sitting in front of priests who were literally fleecing them.My next stop is Amirthakadeswara lingam which was also crowded and significantly women outnumbered men. The lingam here can be taken from its pedestal (avudayar).If a woman walks around the shrine three times with the lingam she is granted child birth. A woman's god!

 I was amused and  entered the temple and started getting the feel of Siva.The temple was clean and the place inside was serene when compared  to the gross disquiet and shambles outside. There is also a beautiful Vishnu temple inside and the place has both Siva and Vishnu together.

Two peculiar features noticed in the temple were one Juraheswara idol who is supposed to cure ailments. He looks artistic and the other one was the 64th Nayanmar. Kirupananda Variyar's bronze idol makes up the 64th. I was just thinking, Why?. I read about him in my net enabled gadget and felt ashamed of myself.I prayed in front of him and decided to visit his birth place Kangayanallur.I started having a crampy pain in my leg and sat for some time.

Finally the temple legend.Kubera was gifted Agaya vimanam(aircraft) by Shiva so that he can visit all holy places.When he came to this place he saw all animals which included deer and tiger drinking together in the river without a shred of animosity.He landed here,felt Shiva and started worshiping Shiva here. Shiva appeared infront of him and blessed him. Kubera has a separate shrine here.

Thirugnanasambandar had come to this place and  praised  Siva as well as Juraheswarar who had cured the juram(fever)of  the devotees who had accompanied him.

As I was walking out of the temple I heard somebody telling his friend "Dei antha Juraheswarara pathiada munu kai kalluda".I pinched myself.I saw the idol but  did not see this aspect.Went back and saw him.Actually he has 3 hands,3 heads and 3 hands. Happily I strolled out of the temple and my sore leg felt fit and strong.

Juraheswara?

AVINASHI and THIRUMURUGANPOONDI:

INSIDE AVINASHIAPPAR TEMPLE - THE DAWN

GOPURA DARISNAM

Sundaramurthy nayanmar apart from being a staunch devotee of Siva is also his great friend. Sundarar had gone across this place previously called as Pukolliyur, twice.To know why Sundarar had come here we need to go through this enchanting story of  friendship.

Cheraman as the name says was a Chera king. His utmost devotion to Shiva made him relinquish his throne to his brother and left to Vanchikulam a Siva abode.After few years his brother came back and forced his elder brother to accept the throne again.While reading this story a wry smile of our Tamilnadu dynastic politics of brother's fighting for the throne came to my mind. Cheraman came back and started ruling the country in a just manner.

Nataraja was his favourite Siva incarnate.Whenever he used to pray in front of Nataraja Cheraman will hear the musical sound of Siva's anklet.One day he did not hear the sound and felt very bad.Siva explained him that he was spell and probably feet bound because of the songs of Sundarar at Thillai(Chidambaram) he could not do the cosmic dance at the time of Cheraman's prayer.Cheraman immediately rushed to Thillai to meet Sundarar.But Sundarar had already left to Thiruvarur.Cheraman went to Thiruvarur after getting the blessings of Nataraja at Thillai.At Thiruvarur Cheraman befriended Sundarar and their friendship is a fairy tale.Both of them visited several places together and Cheraman invited Sundarar to visit  Vanchikulam.

CROCODILE GIVING THE CHILD BACK

STHALA VIRUTCHAM

Sundarar decided to meet his friend at Kerala and started with his entourage.

Avinashi was called Pukoliyur at that time and gained importance because of Sundarar. Sundarar was walking across this village and on either side of the road he found two houses where, in one house there was jubilation and in the other house was sorrow personified. He inquired and found that two children of same age (5 years)each one belonging to these two houses were playing in a pond near by.A crocodile had preyed upon a child and the other child ran back home to narrate the story.5 years had gone by and the living child is 10 years old now.Their parents were conducting Poonol podum vizha - ceremony conducted in Brahmin families were the holy thread is put across the chest of male gender.

He called the parents of the bereaved son to come with him to the river.He started singing in praise of the lord and when he started singing the fourth song he gently ordered the lord to give back the child.To everyone's surprise and happiness the crocodile reappeared and gave a child which was ten years old. Sundarar gave the child to the happy family and proceeded to Kerala. This pond is one km away from the temple. After staying with Cheraman, Sundarar started coming back to Tamilnadu. Cheraman had gifted him with gold and ornaments.

While coming back God wanted to play with Sundarar. He sent his body  guards as thieves and robbed Sundarar. A peeved Sundarar started to cry in front of Siva. Siva showed the place where the treasure was buried(Vedupari).This happened at Tirumuruganpoondi our next temple which is just 4 kms away from Avinashi.
Bus stops infront of the temple and after a walk of two hundred meters one can see the small temple devoid of Gopuram. To the right of Siva lord Muruga is present.He has 6 faces and he draws lot of devotees. As lord Muruga prayed here this place is called Thirumuruganpoondi.Why did lord Muruga pray here?After Sura samharam Muruga had to clean his sins and he prayed at this place to come clean.

ENTRANCE OF MURUGANPOONDI TEMPLE - NO GOPURAM

SUNDARAR'S TREASURE BURIED PLACE

THE CHARIOT OF THE LORD

After Thirumurugan poondi I took a bus to Erode from Avinashi.  Get down at Perundurai and take  another bus to Bhavani. Just outside Bhavani bus stops at a place called Mukkudal. get down and half a Km walk will take us to this holy temple. After seeing Sangmeswarar reach Erode again and take a bus to Thiruchengode.

THIRUCHENGODE:

THE STEPS OF THE STEEP MOUNTAIN

BEAUTIFUL CARVINGS INSIDE THE TEMPLE

A BEAUTIFUL VIEW OF THE TEMPLE

Sun was at full throttle.Another half an hour travel. Get down at the outskirts of the town. One km walk will bring us to the foot hill of Thiruchenkundru.

Oops Thiruchengodu or Thiruchenkundru.As the mountain looks red in colour it is also called Chengundru(red hilled town).As the mountain looks like a straight line it is also called Chengodu(Straight line) One has to climb 1200 steps to see Arthanareswarar.Make sure you have a bottle of water   and also eat something before you start climbing.

I did neither and felt the mistake when I started climbing.

The whole mountain is sparsely crowded and there are no shops enroute.As the sun was scorching I was stretched to my reserve energy.

After few steps I saw a huge Nandhi also called Vennai Nandhi(butter).The Nandhi is  covered fully with butter.After getting his blessings I looked in  front to see a magnificent snake engraved in the mountain. It is 60 feet long and has 5 heads. Abhisegam is done for the Snake.Another architectural engravings on either side of the mountain awaits us after few more steps.They are sixty in number and are identical.These engravings are called Sathya vakku padigal.(steps of truth)After walking these 60 steps there is a shrine for Sathyanathan. Promises made at these steps are made in front of god and false promises will incur the wrath of Sathyanathan.

I saw few young lovers on either side of the mountain.I hope they never promised here. I just worshiped Sathyanathan and made no promise.Promises are to be kept. I usually break. Escaping the wrath of Sathyanathan I started climbing up.

After another 400 steps I reached the hilltop exasperated.There was a shop there selling cool drinks.After chilling down I entered the temple. Temple was closed and was supposed to open by 3.30 pm. I had full one hour and  during this time I tried to find the real meaning of Arthanareswarar. What it means ?

Shiva Lingam is a symbol of union of the duality of Shiva (the Pure One) and Shakthi (sacred force or the cosmic energy). According to Hinduism Lord Shiva appears as Arthanareeswara which indicates the union of substance and energy – the Being and his Shakthi known as Energy. This union is the source of all the creation. Shiva and Skathi can be considered as a metaphor for union of the duality to represent the ultimate non-duality (creation) of the Universe. The true meaning is the eventual union of the duality (of you and me) into the non-duality (where God is seen in the form of Nirguna Brahman or absence of you and me and the Eternal Blissful presence of the Divine Awareness (Sat-Chit-Ananda). The representation as Sada Shiva demonstrates that the division between material and energy is superfluous and in reality all is one. He shows himself as being all that is male and all that is female through the form of Arthanareeswarar as being the inseparable unity. God is an unfolding creative process that may expand without limit.

I read another article written by Sathya chander and found that concept of Arthanreeswar also interesting.He equates Shiva to "Static state" like a ocean which is very calm."Dynamic state" is what is seen and this is Shakthi. This is equated to wave which comes from the ocean.The waves go back to the ocean which is again a Static state.This dynamic and static state are always together and cannot be separated.This symbolises Arthanareswarar.He is a  treat to watch. I was just seeing the god for few minutes and tried to be Static.At the foot of the deity there is a spring water.This water sprout is called as Devatheertham.

When I read again about the two concepts of Arthanareswarar I felt both are same.  I wanted to correct it but the static energy in me stopped it. To the left of Shiva there is Murugan shrine and he is quite famous here.It is due to the songs of Arunagirinathar.

The legend of the mountain finally. We talked about friendship at Avinashi and Thirumuruganpoondi. Here its a straight fight between Vayu(air) and Adisesha(snake).Adisesha should hold Meru(mountain) and Vayu should dislodge the Adishesha from the mountain.The fight starts. Vayu could not break the shackles.He stopped blowing air.Mankind was deprived of air and no one could breathe. Sages pleaded with Adiseshan to release the grip.When he relented Vayu made a foul play by blowing air. A part of the hood and the mountain broke into three pieces and fell on the ground.One such piece is Thiruchengodu hill and it looks red because of the blood of Adiseshan.

It was 4.30 pm when I had come down.There is ghat road to take the pilgrims to the top.Walking is an option. Need not go to bus stand as buses come near the place where we start climbing. Reached Erode by 5.30 pm and started packing to Pondicherry.